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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everyone,

So I ended up purchasing a cheap USB charger from Amazon and wired it directly to my battery, soon after my battery just keep going dead. So I figured it was because it was wired directly to the battery, so I ended up disconnecting it...

I read several of the threads regarding this and discovered you can wire this to a "switched" circuit which might do the trick but is that necessary? Also, wanted to see if anyone is running the either of the two offered from Procycle.us?

They have two available the TAPP Lite 1.5 amp and the TAPP Gen 5 which is 2.5 amp.

I have a iPhone 7 Plus that I run Motion GPX on and I love it, Usually the batt last long enough for my longer rides but sometimes it comes CLOSE, and I really need a back up or a way to charge, as a safety measure, to navigate my way outta the woods! haha!

What is your charging set up? Direct to battery? Switched? Other methods?

Thanks for any input or info, feeling it out with everyone before I purchase a new one :)
 

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Go to Amazon and pick up one of these Anker portable booster/charger batteries. I have a couple. If I’m going on a trip or to an area with poor cell coverage where my phone battery will get more use without the ability to recharge it, this battery always saves the day. It’s small and will top off your phone several times before it needs charging itself. They have all different sizes and capacities to choose from.
This way if you go off trail to some remote place and don’t want to backpack your TW, this is the ticket.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Upgraded-Candy-Bar-High-Speed-Technology/dp/B06XS9RMWS/ref=sr_1_8?crid=O7R53PGM2ZLQ&keywords=anker+portable+charger&qid=1571791149&sprefix=Anker,aps,204&sr=8-8

FA4C6126-3DDD-4ED1-9AF5-FD15A44158F9.png
 

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Darn USB ports do draw a few milliamps which adds up over time to the detriment of your battery. It's a transformer thing.;)
So to avoid this problem I see three basic schools of thought:

1) Wire to a "keyed on" circuit like your running lights.
2) Wire through an added switch to the battery or other identifiable "always on" circuit.
3) Adapt a three way on-off-on switch to select and feed power to USB from either option 1) or option 2) power sources ( without the redundant on-off switch). The "Off" position would be used only if things got hot & smokey with escaping electrons.

Option #3 allows you to select from the automatic protection of #1 or the convenience of continuous charging while briefly off the bike via #2's direct connection to battery. Also allows the "always off" disconnected option should there be a short circuit or desire to absolutely minimize current draw during a weak battery starting attempt.

I like this logic circuitry for other vehicle's accessory groups that may go camping or off road occasionally. Sure beats the loud electronic nanny proclamations of a Nissan Maxima in the Islands every 10 seconds "DOOR IS AGAR!" when trying to listen to music with doors open at the beach. Owner/ operator selectable power sure beats CANBUS in my opinion.
 

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I run off my DRL circuit like Fred mentioned above. (although I've disconnected the DRL's on mine, the added little draw on that circuit for USB would be negligible). There's also the speedo light circuit as well. Another option is the battery tender USB adapter hookups you could put on if you find you need it with the bike off for a little bit and then remove the USB adapter from the charge port. Some of these chargers are not very weatherproof from what I've seen, so I recommend putting a fuse in line with your positive just above the total rated outputs of your USB jacks. The USB adapter I put on mine claimed it was weatherproof, but that couldn't be further from the truth so I took it apart and put silicone around the seams and the edge of the black lens over the voltmeter.
 

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MntMan, I'd just like to mention that you bring a lot of good stuff to this forum. Well written and informative posts are helpful to us all, so thank you sir.
 

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Sure beats the loud electronic nanny proclamations of a Nissan Maxima in the Islands every 10 seconds "DOOR IS AGAR!" when trying to listen to music with doors open at the beach.
Hey Fred, I hate to have to be the spelling cop but I believe that you meant to say "DOOR IS AJAR!" :eek:

Agar
a·gar
/ˈäˌɡär,ˈāˌɡär/

noun

  • a gelatinous substance obtained from various kinds of red seaweed and used in biological culture media and as a thickener in foods.

Ajar
a·jar
/əˈjär/

adjective

  • (of a door or other opening) slightly open. "she had left the window ajar that morning"
(But I still "liked" your post :D!)
 

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Guess that means the door wasn't a jar of strawberry jam then.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just wanted to THANK everyone for the feedback, very insightful! Think I'm going to grab the portable charger like Gladstone said, seems to be the easiest solution at the moment. Then when I have some time ultimately I'd like to wire in a switched charger, perhaps mounting the switch up by the spedo so I can turn it on and off when need be.

Thanks Again :)
 

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Not much help with the USB ports but I will say to check with Apple regarding the amperage that your Iphone 7 is equipped to handle. 1.5 Amp seems about right and 2.5 just might be too much but it is worth looking into before you overcharge and possibly toast your phone. I have an Apple wall adapter cube for the USB charging plug and it says Output 2.1 Amp. Just a few weeks ago I cooked the battery for my portable fish finder unit, one of those 12 Volt 7 AH batteries, I zapped it with a 5 Amp charger and after about an hours or so I started smelling something. The battery was hot as the dickens and all bulged out and probably could have burned the house down had I not caught it.

GaryL
 
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