I sprayed lubricant onto my boots while the motor was running but saw/heard no difference. I think it's definitely the valves at fault.I was convinced my tapping noises were valve conditions but after readjusting with no change it actually went away when I put a new intake boot. It was so dry and filed with hair line cracks it must have had a leak
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I'm sure those that have posted in this and many other threads are just trying to help out. This forum is a wealth of information in regards to the TW. The manuals are available on this forum and should be consulted before any technical work is performed. (At least I know I'll read the manual before trusting something I read on the internet(no offence meant to anyone here but you never know)). I use the info here as a guideline even though there are plenty of threads that are spot on as far as procedures go, many others simply add much needed clarification to the procedures in the manuals.I'm sure someone will take this wrong, but it really bugs me so here goes;
language on this thread is VERY sloppy in description on setting valves. Enough that it will surely cause someone to set their valves wrong.
First, is the actual measurement in setting valve clearances. The only mention of settings doesn't even indicate inches or millimeters. To clarify;
intake 0.05 - 0.09 mm
exhaust 0.11 - 0.15 mm
Getting to TDC. This is EXTREMELY critical. Those three marks on the flywheel are for both TDC and timing advance. Looking at the 3 marks, it is the far right mark that is TDC. The crank turns counter clockwise. That means the first two marks come up first. These are timing marks. Timing is usually measured in degrees of advance. See? these marks are in advance of the TDC mark, which follows those first two marks. Those marks bracket the timing advance. The timing advance is 9 degrees. So, if you set up your valves for adjustment using the FIRST, or far left of the three marks, you'll be off by probably 10 degrees from TDC. The better way to set TDC for the valve timing is with the cam cover off and aligning up the marks on the cam gear to the mark on the cylinder head. When those are lined up, the crank marks should be lined up on the far right of the three marks. If it isn't, then there is a timing problem between the crank (piston) and the valves. That isn't good and could result in a valve hitting the piston if it's off by too much.
Anyways, I just thought it was important to make clear that setting valves is something where detail matters.
I have heard this before but it has not been my experience.The wear occurs at the valve seat; where the face of the valve meets the cylinder combustion chamber. As that area wears, the stem of the valve moves up, closer to the adjuster and the gap closes.