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I followed tdubskid video on valve adjustment..but it didn't end well. First problem I had when adjusting the intake. I tried tightening it back up, my torque was set correctly but it stripped the tippet, just deformed the threads. I was able to get a new one and replace it. I had it adjusted .003 intake, .005 exhaust. Started it up, idle fine, reved it up fine, put it in first (I have a tach) and ran fine all the way up to 6k rpm. Shifted to second and all of sudden at 3500RPM or so it sputters and won't rev any higher. In neutral it will rev up but in second it sputters any ideas?
 

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Did you replace the nut and the stud? Got to replace both components with threads when you strip them. Sounds like it has opened up the clearance. You won't get full cam lift. Thus not as much air flow to the cylinder.
 

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Did you replace the nut and the stud? Got to replace both components with threads when you strip them. Sounds like it has opened up the clearance. You won't get full cam lift. Thus not as much air flow to the cylinder.
Although I deformed the tippet (is that what you are referring to as the stud) When I replaced it I put the nut back and checked clearance. When I put the nut on, it threaded the new stud (tippet) fine.


So we are on the same page exhaust clearance: .004-.006 and Intake .002-.004 is that correct?
 

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Although I deformed the tippet (is that what you are referring to as the stud) When I replaced it I put the nut back and checked clearance. When I put the nut on, it threaded the new stud (tippet) fine. ...
There have been instances of soft metal in quite a number of TW studs, bolts, nuts, and so on over the years.

On such a critical component that costs so little it's nuts not to replace both at the same time. :p Impossible to tell if stripping the tappet threads also weakened the nut threads.
 
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