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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so the idiot got his carb overflow fixed now he can not adjust the valves. I know what you guys are thinking. " This guy should just pay somebody" But I am very stubborn and can only learn from doing things myself. I have adjusted the valves and they are extremely loud "clackety clackety" I have tried doing it by the book and by the video posted by Jake that does it by watching the opening and closing of the valves. My question is when doing it by the book I line up the T on the flywheel in the peep hole and adjust the intake valves. DO I THEN TURN THE FLYWHEEL 180 OR 360 DEGREES BEFORE ADJUSTING THE EXHAUST VALVE OR DO I DO IT IN THE SAME POSITION AS THE INJTAKE VALVE. Thanks signed,



Resident Idiot.
 

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You wanna get it to the the 'T' that allows each tappet (exhaust and intake) to have free play. It will barely be enough to see, but you can feel it lift. They should both be lifting. That's top dead center of the compression stroke, so that the valves are completely closed and the tappets free to adjust.



There are conflicting marks on the flywheel sometimes, but choose the mark that:



A ) leaves both tappets free to move the little bit they do

B ) raises a soft object (I prefer a straw) to its peak in travel if you've removed the sparkplug and sat the straw on top of the piston.



Both tappets being mobile means you're in either the compression or ignition stroke, but not necessarily the perfect moment. The peak of your straw (or whatever you use) is that perfect moment: top-dead-center during the compression stroke, very immediately before ignition. Remember to have the spark plug out or the compression will make it hard to line up perfectly.



In addition, your cam sprocket has a groove in it that should be pointing almost perfectly up at the "notch" in the head casting above it. It's an additional method to be sure, but more related to cam timing than valve clearances. If you have A and B but the cam is off for some reason, it's most likely that the cam chain has skipped a link or two due to improper tension or installation, rendering the bike very likely unable to run.



In short, adjust both valves with the flywheel in the same spot. That spot needs to allow both tappets to move, meaning both valves are sealed by their springs, not the rockers/tappets/followers. Lotta names for it, but it's the arms that push the valves into opening.



If your bike is from 2000 or earlier, the cam chain requires manual adjusting which means it can also give you the "clackety" noise when it's really not tight enough. Even easier to adjust it than the valves, but I'd say if you did the valves as you described, that could be a part of it. Remember to leave more clearance than less as the clearance will grow tighter over time. Valves "seat" themselves like that.



Also, I commend you for learning this instead of leaving it up to some mechanic who might not put an ounce of passion into the work. You're becoming a surgeon.
 

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Are you referring to the little offset cover for the cam or the cover on the side of the head? In either case, I'd recommend patience and an impact driver if that fails. A good set of vice grips should even work there, but if it's the screws inside the head you're talking about, make sure not to drop them down in there. You don't absolutely need to reveal the cam to set valves, but it can help.



Anyway, if you get them off, go to a hardware store and replace them. I'd try plated allen head screws if they'll fit without clearance issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well bike is running. Carb no leaky and valves are adjusted. Thanks guys! Now I have to tune the carb because it does not idle well without throttle and lags in slow and medium speeds and kinda has real quiet pops from the exhaust. High throttle runs fine. Any suggestions would be appreciated but I am gonna go through the carb tune sticky and see what happens. Thanks guys.
 
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