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Bike is at around 600 miles, so I did the adjustment today utilizing tdubskid's video tutorial: http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/324-adjusting-valve-clearance.html#post2782

I didn't have a tool and was using needlenose pliers. What a pain to keep adjustment in place while tightening the lock nut! I'll be rigging one of the deck screw adjusters or maybe just pop for the tool.

Finally got .003 on the intake and .005 on the exhaust to stay after tightening lock nut with my buddy's torque wrench.

And here's where the woe and whoa! come in:

Putting everything back together, I had a mental slip and since the torque wrench was right there and had a 10mm socket on it, I used it to tighten the gas tank bolt. Everything was going great, but suddenly tighten became loose... and then there was no bolt head. Son. Of. A... should have used a short wrench. Twisted that thing like butter. Snap-on snap off model torque wrench I guess... Ha!

Got it out with the ez out screw extractor kit, but now I have no gas tank bolt... darn, what to do?

Start rifling through my random nuts and bolts and found one which to the naked eye seemed identical. Alas, it was every so slightly too large to fit.

Then I had a thought: The Germans are good at engineering, but the Japanese are GREAT at making things efficient. Which means they likely don't use a ton of different bolt sizes on a bike that's been around this long. So I started thinking (would have been nice if I'd started earlier), what bolt can I scrounge that's not vital to operations?

Seat. Yes... I can ride with one bolt on the seat, even if it's just until I can get a replacement. And then it occurred to me: when I did the seat foam replacement I couldn't fit the handle strap back on, but I left the bolts for it in case I ever needed them.

Took one out and tried it on the gas tank. A little long, but it just threads into dead space. Voila! Instant working status.
 

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That feeling when you snap a bolt is like seeing blue and red flashing lights in your rearview. Or so I’ve read...

Another nice fix that didn’t cost anything. Cheers
 

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I didn't like the feeling with a torque wrench on the TW. ordered one and tried it on one bolt. it felt like trouble waiting to happen, it's been in the drawer ever since. watch out which valve adjusting tool you buy, there are ones that stick up too far, hit the frame while doing the intake valve

https://procycle.us/images/bikepages/dr650/valve-adjust-driver.jpg
 

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Bike is at around 600 miles, so I did the adjustment today utilizing tdubskid's video tutorial: http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/324-adjusting-valve-clearance.html#post2782

I didn't have a tool and was using needlenose pliers. What a pain to keep adjustment in place while tightening the lock nut! I'll be rigging one of the deck screw adjusters or maybe just pop for the tool.

Finally got .003 on the intake and .005 on the exhaust to stay after tightening lock nut with my buddy's torque wrench.

And here's where the woe and whoa! come in:

Putting everything back together, I had a mental slip and since the torque wrench was right there and had a 10mm socket on it, I used it to tighten the gas tank bolt. Everything was going great, but suddenly tighten became loose... and then there was no bolt head. Son. Of. A... should have used a short wrench. Twisted that thing like butter. Snap-on snap off model torque wrench I guess... Ha!

Got it out with the ez out screw extractor kit, but now I have no gas tank bolt... darn, what to do?

Start rifling through my random nuts and bolts and found one which to the naked eye seemed identical. Alas, it was every so slightly too large to fit.

Then I had a thought: The Germans are good at engineering, but the Japanese are GREAT at making things efficient. Which means they likely don't use a ton of different bolt sizes on a bike that's been around this long. So I started thinking (would have been nice if I'd started earlier), what bolt can I scrounge that's not vital to operations?

Seat. Yes... I can ride with one bolt on the seat, even if it's just until I can get a replacement. And then it occurred to me: when I did the seat foam replacement I couldn't fit the handle strap back on, but I left the bolts for it in case I ever needed them.

Took one out and tried it on the gas tank. A little long, but it just threads into dead space. Voila! Instant working status.
Boo! That’s a drag. I can see how that can happen though. It’s misleading how much pressure one can apply with a long wrench. I use one for rear axel nut and sometimes I don’t. The difference is amazing.

You could probably ride forever with one seat bolt. good idea! Glad you bailed out of that one. I have a seat bolt if you need one.


#GYG
'13 TW200

A.T.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Boo! That’s a drag. I can see how that can happen though. It’s misleading how much pressure one can apply with a long wrench. I use one for rear axel nut and sometimes I don’t. The difference is amazing.

You could probably ride forever with one seat bolt. good idea! Glad you bailed out of that one. I have a seat bolt if you need one.


#GYG
'13 TW200

A.T.
Thank you for the offer. Since I don't use the handle strap on the seat anymore, I don't need to replace the bolt. If I get a chance, I may. However, one of my projects for the future is tool-less seat bolts, i.e., bolt in place and use a wingnut (if I can find one of the right size that fits in that space).
 

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Thank you for the offer. Since I don't use the handle strap on the seat anymore, I don't need to replace the bolt. If I get a chance, I may. However, one of my projects for the future is tool-less seat bolts, i.e., bolt in place and use a wingnut (if I can find one of the right size that fits in that space).
Many of the engineers in the forum have constructed tool less seat retention systems. I went old school and use my 235lb ass to hold mine down. Happy riding!


#GYG
'13 TW200

A.T.
 

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Wow, it needed an adjustment at 600 miles? The manual says their not even broken in till 1000 miles. I'm not even planning on checking mine till 10,000 or so. At less than 1500 miles I'm running full synthetic now. Am I really, really wrong in thinking this way? Oh yea, seat bolts I just snug down with a shorty 1/4" ratchet. In technical terms that's one handed about a half turn after you feel resistance. Never lost one, never stripped one. In my opinion, this is one bike you could work on with the supplied took kit. I've noticed that some of these tork settings are in inch pounds rather that foot pounds. Do not mix the two up.
 

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Wow, it needed an adjustment at 600 miles? ......
I checked mine at 800 miles and they were just slightly out of spec. I'm sure this varies from bike to bike, but since checking is so easy I will do it on the new bike at 800 to 1,000. After that, I check every 5,000 miles. I have had to adjust slightly every time at that interval. I most certainly would not wait until 10,000 miles!!!!! :eek:
 

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You don’t have to search too long on here to find threads about what happens if they go too far out of adjustment. And it’s costly. The odds are long but they engineered a fairly easy way to check and adjust. Just not worth the risk. The warranty on these bikes is six months? Cheers

Wow, it needed an adjustment at 600 miles? The manual says their not even broken in till 1000 miles. I'm not even planning on checking mine till 10,000 or so. At less than 1500 miles I'm running full synthetic now. Am I really, really wrong in thinking this way? Oh yea, seat bolts I just snug down with a shorty 1/4" ratchet. In technical terms that's one handed about a half turn after you feel resistance. Never lost one, never stripped one. In my opinion, this is one bike you could work on with the supplied took kit. I've noticed that some of these tork settings are in inch pounds rather that foot pounds. Do not mix the two up.
 
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