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Discussion Starter #1
Both my valve covers were oozing oil and have been doing so for a while but the last time I checked my valve clearance resulted in an increase. The time had come to fix it.



I went to the local stealership and I think he said he wanted $9 per gasket -- they are just o-rings -- and I needed two. I walked out. Next I looked on Bikebandit and they wanted $7 each. I went to local hardware stores and found some in the plumbing section but I couldn't find the right size.



Lastly I went to Ace Seal here in San Jose. They look like a big wholesaler and I figured they probably had a minimum order of $25 or so. I go in the back door, the front door is for employees only, and a lady greets me. I explain I am looking for o-rings and she asks to see the one I have with me. She carefully measures it and asks me what it is for. I say a motorcycle. She returns with 3 different sizes, the size she measured and one size slightly larger and one smaller. I tried the measured size first and it is perfect. She asks "how many would you like?" and I ask back "how much are they?" To my shock she says 21 cents each!!! So I buy four. 92 cents total, including tax! Man, that is a long cry from the $18 for 2 the dealer wanted.



I checked their website and it says the material used in the o-ring I bought is good to 250 degrees F. Should that be inadequate they also make ones good to 400 degrees F.



Anyway, that's my story and I am sticking to it.

 

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They may be heat resistant, but are they oil resistant? Let us know how they work out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, they are made for oil and I quote what is OK to use these particular o-rings for : " Oil, Air, Water, Gasoline, Engine Coolant, Silicone Greases, Hydraulic Fluids, & Alcohols".



They sell other o-rings for acids, acetone, ketones, steam, silicone oils, o-rings resistant to sunlight and ozone and oxygen, etc.,etc. The young lady specifically asked me if they would be in oil and I said yes. I have no doubt oil will not be the problem.

 

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Not to squash your enthusiasm but I'm afraid 250 degrees won't cut it. These bikes can run hot as hell, up to 350 degrees. But maybe if you get the 400 degree rings and they're oil resistant, then you might be onto something.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not to squash your enthusiasm but I'm afraid 250 degrees won't cut it. These bikes can run hot as hell, up to 350 degrees. But maybe if you get the 400 degree rings and they're oil resistant, then you might be onto something.


I was afraid temperature might be the problem that is why I posted the 250 degrees. But, so far so good. 137 miles and 5.5 hours of run time, some of those miles going up hill at 55 to 60 mph for several miles so I am sure the engine got really hot, other times on a trail going slow, and not a hint of oozing or seepage.



I think the real test will be when it is time to adjust valves again and see whether or not the o-rings are reusable.

 

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I've been advocating matching up o-rings at an industrial seal place for years. I use Westley Seals in Hurst, Texas. E10 ate the stock rubber out of my CB550 carbs, so I HAD to do something unless I wanted to rebuild the carbs every 3 months. Keep the rings you've got. Next time, go for the higher temp material just to be on the safe side. If you can afford them, since they cost twice as much.
 

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You might be ok with the 250. My temp gauge is hooked up at the top of the valve cover and it only goes over 212 sitting at idle (no airflow).
 

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Try moving that temp gauge to the top of the engine and you'll get the real story. Average is 250* at 55mph. Not at all uncommon to hit 300* sitting still on a hot day. Also, those covers are plastic (the reason you cant over torque them!!) so they are probably insulting things a bit preventing the true reading.



-sS
 

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Try moving that temp gauge to the top of the engine and you'll get the real story. Average is 250* at 55mph. Not at all uncommon to hit 300* sitting still on a hot day. Also, those covers are plastic (the reason you cant over torque them!!) so they are probably insulting things a bit preventing the true reading.



-sS


I got insulted by the plastic and the metal. Nice to know I'm not the only one.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Quick follow up report: After 1200 miles and 45 hours of run time I checked the valve clearance and the valve cover gaskets. The rubber of the gasket is still soft and pliable and is slightly above the metal of the cover so when tightened in place it makes a very good seal. Not a single drop has leaked from either cover. These o-rings are up to the task.
 

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Nothing like reviving a really old thread, but when I found this I was disappointed that nobody posted the size. Anyway, the correct size is 2.5 x 58 mm. I bought 4 at the o-ring store for about $8 landed.
 

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Nothing like reviving a really old thread, but when I found this I was disappointed that nobody posted the size. Anyway, the correct size is 2.5 x 58 mm. I bought 4 at the o-ring store for about $8 landed.
Great info. That makes it easier going to ACE Hardware or somewhere to get replacements.
 

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elime gave me a bunch of those O-rings back in 2012, was perhaps the first of many acts of generosity I've received from forum members.
O-rings and friendships formed still going strong.
 

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Here's a post I made a few months ago. Another good place to find o rings for our dubs. Still no seeping from cover



Gasket info

When I stopped the Dub, I could smell cookin' oil. A close look and the valve adjustment cover was seeping some oil out on engine. I washed the area well, removed the cover and gasket. Went to NAPA and found a perfect replacement - $1.70. Been on a few long rides since replacing and the area is still nice and dry. Here's the info:

NAPA
727-2140
O ring 2 1/4 X 2 7/16 X 3
 
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