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Discussion Starter #1
Really screwed on this one. I bought a Vapor Speedometer and Dashboard Indicator Light set up and dropped it off at my local shop. They called me and told me the following, there having a problem with the turn signal indicator. When they turn the turn signal left or right on it lights up, then when you turn the turn signal off it flashes rapidly. I called Trail Tech and they just said it's a wiring issue. That wasn't much help, but has anyone had any problems like this that I can thus tell the shop what to do. There a reputable shop, but I don't know If in panic mode here. Everything is stock except for this new speedometer/tach. Any suggestions.
 

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From what I remember (it's below freezing and the bike is outside) the turn signals went fine. I set up an indicator light for each side, and they tie into the turn signal stem wires, not the indicator in the instrument panel.



If I get home before dark tomorrow I'll see if I can check exactly.
 

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Had a look yesterday and that does seem like what I did. Two Vapor dash lights, one for left and one for right, each teed into the hot turn signal wire going to the turn signal stalks. One to the Vapor dark blue, one to the green. Those Vapor wires share a common black, and that is teed into the TS stalk ground.



 

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Ok, yeah they seemed to fix it. The only problem now is the indicator lights are really hard to see in the daylight, do you have that problem? I think there green... very bad color for them to put it like that. Should have been yellow.
 

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Wire nuts on a vehicle are a big NO-NO. Crimp connectors are almost as bad. Solder and shrink tube is the way to insure not being stranded with a shorted or open circuit.



That said, wire nuts are a good way to temporarily wire circuits just to make sure they work as intended.
 

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Ok, yeah they seemed to fix it. The only problem now is the indicator lights are really hard to see in the daylight, do you have that problem? I think there green... very bad color for them to put it like that. Should have been yellow.


Did your kit come with LED's as well as regular lights? Mine came with both and the LED's are much brighter, very visible. The regular incandescent I can barely see. Only two of the LED's are working at the moment (one was shorted right away and blew the main fuse, another failed after a month) but they are much better.



I've heard that there are brighter LED's yet that fit that socket, superbrightleds.com is apparently a good source.
 

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Wire nuts on a vehicle are a big NO-NO. Crimp connectors are almost as bad. Solder and shrink tube is the way to insure not being stranded with a shorted or open circuit.



That said, wire nuts are a good way to temporarily wire circuits just to make sure they work as intended.


I've always had good luck with mine. If I want to get fancy I'll add a little black tape




The crimp connectors have also been working well, since I got a proper (and expensive) crimp tool:







One connector that I have had real trouble with is Posi-Locks.
 

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Since I'm not electrical savy, I had this professionally installed. How do you get the light bulbs out. They seemed pretty tight in there. Is there any easy trick to pop them out? All the bulbs are green except the headlight one. It's getting dangerous how dim these things are.
 

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The light covers (the green part) just pop straight out. They are a fairly tight fit in the housing.



Bulbs are similar but a much easier pull. The LED's they give you are polarized, if they don't light up, give them half a turn and reinsert.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The light covers (the green part) just pop straight out. They are a fairly tight fit in the housing.



Bulbs are similar but a much easier pull. The LED's they give you are polarized, if they don't light up, give them half a turn and reinsert.
PJ,



The people who installed mine didn't give me the bulbs back
. Do you know what size they are? Also have you noticed the ambient tempature is aprox 10 degrees off. I emailed tech support and got this response



"There is actually nothing that can be done about this. This is an issue that we are working on solving right now. The problem is that the temp sensor for the ambient air temp is actually inside of the computer housing and the heat from the electronic components inside is what causes the temp to be about 10 degrees hotter than what it actually is."
 

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The LED bulbs are about 21 mm tall and 5 mm wide, slightly thinner than the incandescent ones:







In action, with LED's in the turn signal holders and incandescents in the neutral and high beams (apologize for the lack of focus):



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvPq9sGG86o[/media]



With the 5mm base I'm guessing they are the 74 type here:



http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/pt/ipanel.html



On the ambient temp gauge, agree it's useless. It's the only real disappointment with the unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The LED bulbs are about 21 mm tall and 5 mm wide, slightly thinner than the incandescent ones:







In action, with LED's in the turn signal holders and incandescents in the neutral and high beams (apologize for the lack of focus):



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvPq9sGG86o[/media]



With the 5mm base I'm guessing they are the 74 type here:



http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/pt/ipanel.html



On the ambient temp gauge, agree it's useless. It's the only real disappointment with the unit.
Oh ok good pics. Appriciate it.



Damn man so the ambient temp is messed up. I can't believe I find this out after i bought this and installed it. It seems such a stupid issue for them not to correct.
 
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