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Discussion Starter #1
I have never had a deep water crossing or a situation where my TW200 would not start.

But, one of my biggest concerns is deep water crossings and the possiblity of killing the motor during a water crossing.

My question for those of you with more experience is.. What do I do if it does happen?

I plan on doing the carb vent mod that is mentioned on the forum, and try to avoid water when possible but I need to know what to do if it is unavoidable without a major detour and then something goes wrong.

Other than a spare spark plug is there anything else I should be carrying along and what is the procedure to get going again if it were to happen.
 

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As long as your carb vent is re routed to under the seat and your airbox remains stock, your fine on pretty darn deep crossings.
If your so deep so as to intake water......hmm. Best to avoid. Might want to have a kickstart if you don't already. A little silicon dielectric grease applied
to the spark plug boot wouldn't hurt to keep water out. Don't forget to clean out n lube cables, chain after submergence.
 

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I think it will probably die out because of a wet plug before it ingests water - that is if you haven't sealed the plug lead end as suggested. If the water gets that high that you're concerned, rather hit the kill switch on the bar and then turn off the ignition immediately after.

If you have indeed managed to ingest water, there is a good chance that you have done damage if the motor was still running. However, first thing after getting it on a dry footing, is to pull the spark plug and spin the motor a bit to expel water in the cylinder - also listen for any abnormal mechanical sounds.

If all OK, dry the plug connect it without screwing it in, reset the kill switch turn on the ignition switrch and be sure that the kick stand is up (there's a kill switch on it in the down position). Swing the motor with the plug body earthed against an unpainted area to check for spark. If you got spark, replace the plug and fire it up.

As mentioned, you will need to do a lube regimen after something like that ..... swing arm bushes / wheel bearings / chain. You will also need to check the engine oil for 'milkiness' just in case any water got into the crankcase past the piston rings or through a worn seal on kick-start / gear lever & drive sprocket shaft. If so, replace engine oil.

I think that's about it. ;)
 

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One more thing - just drain off a bit of fuel from the float bowl on the bottom of the carb, just in case there's a bit of water in there. ;)
 

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My TW died right in the middle of a water crossing. Had my feet up thinking "I'm going to make it across without getting my feet wet". Water was just over the axles. This was before my vent tube mod. Had to push it to dry land and crank on it with the throttle open to get it to start. Didn't have to do anything else. You might want to carry an extra plug and install the previously mentioned kickstarter if your bike doesn't have one.
 

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Mud Dog sounds like he speaks from experience.:D If dropped so water gets in exhaust then many will stand bike up 90 degrees on it's rear tire to encourage draining. On a TW this might be easier said than done, but bike could be laid on it's side on terra firma to possibly drain most of water out while you pull the air filter and wring it out like a sponge. No use kicking motor over if it can still ingest water.
 

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My solution (ever since I drowned my built Jeep Cherokee)? Avoid water like the plague. Seriously I will cancel a ride and go back the way I came if I can't find a way around water deeper than like 10 or 12 inches, and even that I try to stay out of.
 

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One more thing - just drain off a bit of fuel from the float bowl on the bottom of the carb, just in case there's a bit of water in there. ;)
Ive done tons of deep crossings and I can tell you that its all but impossible to have problems unless your going deeper than the seat where the air intake is. When it does cut out you should:



1. Open the airbox and empty it
2. Turn the petcock off and totally drain the bowl.
3. Refill the bowl.
4. Pull the sparklplug and expel any water (normally there wont be any)
5. If possible pour a little fuel into the cylinder
6. Fire it up WOT

Once youve done the carb vent mod that will eliminate most of the problems. I have mine vented up to the handlebars just to be safe. Also note that even after youve vented the carb its possible for the vent tubes to plug with mud or debris and cause it to stop running, sometimes you just need to rinse or blow out the lines. Eventually im going to have my air intake on the handlebars as well as I do alot of water crossings as seen here:

 

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^^^ what he said

If there's any resistance to to the motor turning over, remove the plug - crank a few times - (dry off) and replace the plug. (You may wish to change the oil at that point, but it'll still get you home)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the tips, I don't plan on seeking out water just for the heck of it, but I do plan on riding some Back Country Discovery Routes that may have some water crossings and want to be somewhat prepared. I avoid water whenever possible because of the expensive repairs and stress of being broke down and will detour around water where possible. I did add the kickstarter to my 2013 about 3 months ago.
 

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One will note in the video that Tiny wheel has a "bow wave" in front of him - same principle that's used in 4x4 water crossings - there's a through behind the wave and that's where you and your intake are positioned, out of the deeper water. What's important to bear in mind is your speed - too slow and there's no 'bow wave' which raises the next point - you cannot always achieve the necessary speed (the terrain dictates) and then it could possibly be problem time.

[QUOTE"Tiny Wheel"]Also note that even after you've vented the carb its possible for the vent tubes to plug with mud or debris and cause it to stop running[/QUOTE]

I'm not sure what kind of vent tube you would use for this mod, but if it's 6mm or 8mm one could use a fuel filter on the upper end to stop dirt / debris and perhaps even water from getting in.

That all said, from a personal POV I have to agree with the sentiment about avoiding water crossings if at all possible, especially if it's dirty / muddy water ...... I've seen a lot of damage and otherwise necessary maintenance stem from this (bearings / seals & electrical components). If it's unavoidable and you have to, then so be it. Of course it is as I said, my personal POV, but then there are the guys that don't mind the consequences and are out to have fun ..... horses for courses.
 

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So how exactly did you get your forum name? :D:D:p

I'm a flying squirrel, we don't do MUD! ;)
That was in my 'younger' days before I'd learned some lessons from the academy of hard knocks! :)

Actually it was on a fishing trip along the Wild Coast with 4x4 vehicles ..... accepted a challenge to see if I could get through a muddy bog. Bravado prevailed over common sense and in a very short space of time I was well and truly bogged down over the axles in a really dirty vehicle - it took two vehicles in tandem to haul me out. Of course I was teased about it for the remainder of the trip. Some of the group were Afrikaans speaking guys and the term "Mad dogs and Englishmen" was bandied about, and I was initially named "Mad Dog", but it soon changed to "Mud Dog" and the name stuck.

It was further cemented for eternity the weekend after when one of the guys put a "Mud Dog" sticker on my vehicle which he had made up.

That was about 20 yrs ago, and thinking about it, I can confirm that alternators, tensioner pulley bearings, differential pinion seals and drive-shaft universal joints don't like to be treated that way. icon_blush2.gif
 

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Thanks for the tips, I don't plan on seeking out water just for the heck of it, but I do plan on riding some Back Country Discovery Routes that may have some water crossings and want to be somewhat prepared. I avoid water whenever possible because of the expensive repairs and stress of being broke down and will detour around water where possible. I did add the kickstarter to my 2013 about 3 months ago.

As mentioned, the tank vent mod will work nicely.

This what it's like if you don't. Only thing I did was opened and aired out the airbox. Just a bit of water in, not bad. Waited about 10-15 minutes and it started right up. Course I didn't truly submarine the TW to where I had to stand on end, remove spark plug, wait for the seat to dry ect...
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I finally found a video on You tube, that did a complete demonstration that answered my question, a visual version of what Tiny-Wheel was saying he does, with the addition of taking the tank off to flip the TW over for part of the process. So, between the vent modification and notes taken from the forum and video, I feel comfortable that I would be able to get it going again.

 
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