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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy ya'll,

I'm at the end stage of installing my new Web Cam on my '03. I've read as many post as I could stand; but at this point I'm still a bit confused. I've got the little dowel on top of the cam; inline with the indicator at the top of the window. I've got 3 marks visible in the window above the crank bolt. I've got the tappets backed off, and both valve springs are extended. I'm ready to put the sprocket and chain back in place. What mark on the flywheel do I use for TDC, and how do I know if its in the compression or exhaust stroke? Is this is also the point where I set valve clearance. This is my first time working on a 4 stroke top end. If one of you experts could chime in; I'ld really appreciate it.

Thanks,

Larry
 

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Different years have slightly different marks, but it should be a 'T' no matter what. It will be TDC on the compression stroke when both valve tappets move up and down freely. And yes, you adjust valve clearance in the same position. Go as far out on clearance as the manual allows, since it will get tighter over time. A decking screw screwed into a dowel fits the adjusters nicely, using the squared hole in the head of the screw.
 

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My '05 has three vertical marks, the two on the left have a horizontal line between them forming an elongated "H". On mine, TDC is the solo line.



Also, I could "feel" TDC as it is the most difficult position to hold the crank still! It seems to want to jump to one side or the other.
 

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My '05 has three vertical marks, the two on the left have a horizontal line between them forming an elongated "H". On mine, TDC is the solo line.



Also, I could "feel" TDC as it is the most difficult position to hold the crank still! It seems to want to jump to one side or the other.







I really like to hear how pleased those with the Web cam are after a sucessful install, Please chime in.. Thanks
 

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My '05 has three vertical marks, the two on the left have a horizontal line between them forming an elongated "H". On mine, TDC is the solo line.



Also, I could "feel" TDC as it is the most difficult position to hold the crank still! It seems to want to jump to one side or the other.


That's how compression works. If you're not already doing it, remove the spark plug and this shouldn't be a problem anymore.
 

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My 94 has the 3 marks also ,but there is a "T" mark, the top of it may be hard to see ,but it's there.


This might be the issue. The horizontal lines are sometimes a bit thinner, so the vertical line farthest to the right should work. Take your spark plug out and stick something soft like a straw in there, on the piston. Hold the straw gently while you turn the crank. That tiny, tiny moment in rotation where it hangs at the top of its travel is TDC. If you can get it to that point, that will be plenty good to do timing adjustments and cam work. Once it's there, take note of which notch is in the timing hole for future reference. You may notice it off by a hair, and you can correct this if you wanna spin it a little, but don't turn it so much that the piston starts falling again.



It's (kinda surprisingly) not as much of an exact science as we think sometimes. A little play in the cam chain will help this difference be more noticeable at times, so using the piston's rise as a backup helps clear things up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You guys are the greatest. Thank you so much. Now; can I get the chain back on the lower sprocket without pulling the crank side cover? I somehow managed to get it off while trying to get the top sprocket on the cam. Also; there are no vertical marks, and the one on the right is TDC.
 

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You guys are the greatest. Thank you so much. Now; can I get the chain back on the lower sprocket without pulling the crank side cover? I somehow managed to get it off while trying to get the top sprocket on the cam. Also; there are no vertical marks, and the one on the right is TDC.


You'll have to let the tensioner out all the way, if you haven't already. I'm not sure how you do that on the post-2001 TW's, but I'm sure it can't be hard. Getting it on with the cover there is doable, just a little tricky. Make sure your timing didn't get messed up in the process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You'll have to let the tensioner out all the way, if you haven't already. I'm not sure how you do that on the post-2001 TW's, but I'm sure it can't be hard. Getting it on with the cover there is doable, just a little tricky. Make sure your timing didn't get messed up in the process.


The tensioner was removed prior to removing the old cam. I could really use some ideas on how to get the chain back on the lower sprocket, and then how to get the upper sprocket with chain on to the cam.
 

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I've been able to get the chain back on the lower sprocket simply through trial and error, like fishing. You might also consider a small mirror and a bright light so you can see down in the crankcase to see if you can see what it needs to get back on. Auto parts stores sell small telescoping inspection mirrors that work great, or you might get a small makeup mirror from the wife.



Once you get it back on the lower sprocket put the cam sprocket in the chain, then keep tension on the sprocket/chain so the chain doesn't slip off the lower sprocket again.



The base gasket replacement thread describes the procedure for retiming the cam. I'm pretty sure the mark you're after on the flywheel is the one furthest to the right. The other two marks are for checking ignition timing as found on Chapter 3, Page 9 of the TW main manual.



Once you get it together turn it through a couple of revolutions by hand to make sure everything is good before you attempt to start it. That way if there's a problem you will feel it without bending a valve.



Good luck and remember, persistence pays off! Also, when you get frustrated just give it a rest. Go and do something else. It always seems to go better when you come back to it later.



I look forward to hearing how you like that cam. That's something I would like to do some day.
 

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Webcam is a manufacturer. They make cams for our bikes by welding extra material onto stock cores and regrinding them to a different profile.



There are 3 levels of lift and duration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I've been able to get the chain back on the lower sprocket simply through trial and error, like fishing. You might also consider a small mirror and a bright light so you can see down in the crankcase to see if you can see what it needs to get back on. Auto parts stores sell small telescoping inspection mirrors that work great, or you might get a small makeup mirror from the wife.



Once you get it back on the lower sprocket put the cam sprocket in the chain, then keep tension on the sprocket/chain so the chain doesn't slip off the lower sprocket again.



The base gasket replacement thread describes the procedure for retiming the cam. I'm pretty sure the mark you're after on the flywheel is the one furthest to the right. The other two marks are for checking ignition timing as found on Chapter 3, Page 9 of the TW main manual.



Once you get it together turn it through a couple of revolutions by hand to make sure everything is good before you attempt to start it. That way if there's a problem you will feel it without bending a valve.



Good luck and remember, persistence pays off! Also, when you get frustrated just give it a rest. Go and do something else. It always seems to go better when you come back to it later.



I look forward to hearing how you like that cam. That's something I would like to do some day.


Thanks, I'll give it a go tomorrow. I hope I get it all back together before that big cold front hits Saturday.
 
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