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Hey guys:)



I've got a weird problem with my clutch. During the first few kms when I take my 2006 TeeDub for a spin, the gear shifting is smooth. But after I've been riding for a while, the gears start to get a little rough. ie, changing gears (upshifting) has a weird "grind" kind of feel. I hope I'm explaining this properly ha ha:) Let me try give a better description:



I'll be riding for, say, 6kms. Upshifting is smooth. BUT THEN! Gradually it starts getting a short grinding feel as I change up. Can feel it in the bike, not a nice feeling!! It's a newish bike: 6000km on the clock. I bought it secondhand.



Has anyone ever experienced something like this?
 

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Just to be clear, this is all the way the shift "feels" and not "sounds," correct? As long as you aren't hearing any noise, I think what you are experiencing is temperamental shifting as your engine becomes warmer. Do a search on shifting and it will come up. it's a common Tdub characteristic. Mine does it and and it has only 750 miles on it. The fix, so some say, is a higher viscosity oil, or just put up with it.



dan
 

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Yes, feels, not sounds like luckily:) It's a really strange thing, is changing the oil the only real "cure"? I'm currently using Castrol GTX 20W-50
 

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Yes, feels, not sounds like luckily:) It's a really strange thing, is changing the oil the only real "cure"? I'm currently using Castrol GTX 20W-50


Well, the folks that have gone to synthetic oil seem to like it. but i would think 50 weight would help. Somebody else needs to weigh in here to let you know if this is some other issue. But if it is just shifting a little unevenly and performs fine, I have to think it's not a real malfunction.





dan
 

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It may not be internal. TW transmisisons are a bit temperamental, but here's a couple things you might want to check if you haven't already.



1) Chain tension. Too tight or too loose will cause shifting difficulties.





2) Clutch cable return spring not connected. There is a return spring on the clutch arm on the left side of the engine. Many have reported this spring is not over the arm correctly. Follow your clutch cable down to the engine and you'll see what I'm describing. This thread will show a picture of what I'm talking about. http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/431-clutch-slipping-check-spring/





Just a couple idea's for what it's worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It may not be internal. TW transmisisons are a bit temperamental, but here's a couple things you might want to check if you haven't already.



1) Chain tension. Too tight or too loose will cause shifting difficulties.





2) Clutch cable return spring not connected. There is a return spring on the clutch arm on the left side of the engine. Many have reported this spring is not over the arm correctly. Follow your clutch cable down to the engine and you'll see what I'm describing. This thread will show a picture of what I'm talking about. http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/431-clutch-slipping-check-spring/





Just a couple idea's for what it's worth.




Thanks, yes I've checked that. I will try the higher oil sometime in future, Just need a few months to read through all the controversial oil topics online ha ha
Another tip my uncle shared with me is to pour a bit of oil down the clutch cable housing, makes shifting much smoother:)
 

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GTX may not be appropriate for wet clutches. Use an oil specificly formulated for motorcycles with wet clutches or at least one that meets JASO MA or MA2 certification requirements. Shouldn't cause a trans problem, though. A high quality synthetic usually helps a lot with the shifting. Higher viscosities than recommended are not necessary with an ester-based synthetic oil--the nature of such oils is to have a significantly higher vapor point than dino oils which results in a significntly lower degradation from heat. Also, a high quality synthetic base oil is composed of identical molecules that tend to flow better through the oil passages than dino oil, which has many different types of molecules that tend to stratify by size and type. Layers of molecules against the passage walls then move much slower than those in the middle and tend to insulate the fast flowing oil from the walls. A quality synthetic doesn't suffer from stratification, thus reducing engine temperatures 10 to 25*C.



All cables should be lubed on a regular basis. Read the owners manual for service intervals, procedures, and appropriate lubricant.
 

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GTX may not be appropriate for wet clutches. Use an oil specificly formulated for motorcycles with wet clutches or at least one that meets JASO MA or MA2 certification requirements. Shouldn't cause a trans problem, though. A high quality synthetic usually helps a lot with the shifting. Higher viscosities than recommended are not necessary with an ester-based synthetic oil--the nature of such oils is to have a significantly higher vapor point than dino oils which results in a significntly lower degradation from heat. Also, a high quality synthetic base oil is composed of identical molecules that tend to flow better through the oil passages than dino oil, which has many different types of molecules that tend to stratify by size and type. Layers of molecules against the passage walls then move much slower than those in the middle and tend to insulate the fast flowing oil from the walls. A quality synthetic doesn't suffer from stratification, thus reducing engine temperatures 10 to 25*C.



All cables should be lubed on a regular basis. Read the owners manual for service intervals, procedures, and appropriate lubricant.
Wow, thanks for the great explanation:) I've just bought a 5L of Castrol ha ha, gonna try sell it to a friend with a car...
 
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