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If you have some good info for our members to help keep them safe, please share.
You can learn to ride a motorcycle in a week end. It takes a lifetime to learn when not to ride and where not to ride.

Kinda like flying. It is better to be on the ground wishing you were up there instead of being up there and wishing you were on the ground.
 

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The vintage pics were FAR more interesting than the clip.:icon_shaking2:

Seriously, are there ANY folks on this forum that don't understand that you should slow down in wet weather? IT'S JUST NOT THAT SIMPLE!!!!!:eek:

First off, I totally disagree with the cop's statement that motorcycles will hydroplane before cars! The speed at which hydroplaning occurs is TOTALLY dependent on size of contact patch, weight on that patch, and ability of the tire to squeegee water out to the side....(which depends on the first two as well as tire design.)

So, a well designed, deeply treaded motorcycle tire on a heavy bike will not hydroplane before an average, 50% worn, cheap highway car tire on a sedan with one person in it. In fact, the very narrowness of the typical motorcycle tire helps delay onset of hydroplaning......this cop obviously rides a Harley!!!! But this means that OUR TW's are MORE likely to hydroplane before a similar 200 cc bike with narrow tires, so we have to be more aware and slow more. Our aggressive treads will help, unless you have put street tires on your TW!

The really important thing to understand about hydroplaning is that EVERY tire is different, EVERY road is different, EVERY depth of water is different, and the onset of hydroplaning can only be predicted by actual experience on THAT road, on THAT day, on THAT bike, with THOSE tires, at THAT weight, with THAT depth of water! This is why it SO IMPORTANT to slow down to WAY below what speed you MIGHT be able to negotiate that section of road at first until you are confidant that a somewhat higher speed is safe. Test braking is a good way to figure this out. If a few gentle brake applications don't produce any squirelliness or incipient lock up, then some more moderate applications may help define whether or not the tire is close to hydroplaning. If you have ABS, then ANY activation of the ABS will tell you where to back off. It takes an extreme application of brakes to trigger ABS on dry pavement, but much less on wet pavement and almost none if the tire is starting to hydroplane.

The other thing that many riders don't understand is that the first 10 minutes of rain on a road that has been dry for weeks or months is by FAR more dangerous than that same section after 30 minutes of rain. All the grime and oils get floated on top of the water, which may only be 1/8 inch deep, and it can be slick as black ice for a few minutes.

Since hydroplaning is VERY dependent on water depth, if you can see STANDING water on the road in front of you, SLOW WAY DOWN BEFORE ENTERING IT!! The very best speed at which to negotiate deeper water is AS SLOW AS POSSIBLE while still staying balanced. To hell with whoever is behind you, unless you really think you are going to be rear-ended. I might be willing to go through 1/8 inch of water at 45, 1 inch at 25, 6 inches at 10, but 1 foot at only 2 mph!

And stay out of the truck ruts!!!!:D
 
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