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Discussion Starter #1
I FINALLY picked up an old ('87) Tdub. The carb is missing parts, and so far, I think I need the screws that hold on the float bowl (M4 x 16 socket head screws?), a float bowl pin (probably float bowl as well), a needle valve set, a diaphragm set, a needle set? It appears to be a California model, and has a canister on the right side, with tubes leading from the tank area. I believe the main jet is bent. What do you suggest, and where do you suggest I get these parts? Thanks! Mark
 

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I'd replace anything and everything that screws in or slides in to that carb. Needle, seat, float, float needle, main jet, emulsion tube, pilot, gasket, etc.



I think 16mm is a bit too long. 10mm is what I used. 10mm is ~3/8 inches, so take a quick measurement with the bowl on there.



Give it a good cleaning and hope nothing is stripped out.



Go to the parts diagram for a full list of parts needed.
 

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This link should get you to the parts diagram for the 87 California carb at Ron Ayers.



http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/CARBURETOR_(CALIFORNIA_MODEL_ONLY)/MakeID/4/Make/Yamaha/YearID/28/Year/1987/ModelID/9234/Model/TW_200/GroupID/443463/Group/CARBURETOR_(CALIFORNIA_MODEL_ONLY)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for your replies! I was hoping there were "kits" available, like on other carburated machines (I've been working on old Gravelys of late). The majority of the carb is present, and yes, one probably should replace more items that can be. The one post that has been most helpful is: Link - Mark
 

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Yes, I agree that the link you gave as the most helpful is a great link. I need to get my 89 to pass emissions and that link is going to make it easy.
 

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if you are trying to pass az emissions, the advice I can give you is a properly tuned carb WILL FAIL.

the co. need to be less tha 5.00. the good news is they only test idle

.5 turn the idle down to the lowest possible idle

1. go way leeaaaaan, pilot screw almost closed 1/4 turn or less, pilot jet one size down

2. new clean fuel

3. no air filter

4. new D8ea plug

5. ride it there, make sure it hot, very hot



one other thing, if the float level is too high it will also run rich.you may have to adjust for testing then re-adjust
 

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Good tips. I did everything you said and also mixed about 25% seafoam into the gasoline. After two failures to pass, she made it following your instructions plus the seafoam. I'm not sure if the Seafoam makes a difference or not. Thanks for your helpful advice.





if you are trying to pass az emissions, the advice I can give you is a properly tuned carb WILL FAIL.

the co. need to be less tha 5.00. the good news is they only test idle

.5 turn the idle down to the lowest possible idle

1. go way leeaaaaan, pilot screw almost closed 1/4 turn or less, pilot jet one size down

2. new clean fuel

3. no air filter

4. new D8ea plug

5. ride it there, make sure it hot, very hot



one other thing, if the float level is too high it will also run rich.you may have to adjust for testing then re-adjust
 

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Good tips. I did everything you said and also mixed about 25% seafoam into the gasoline. After two failures to pass, she made it following your instructions plus the seafoam. I'm not sure if the Seafoam makes a difference or not. Thanks for your helpful advice.
you are welcome,

I am 4 for 4. however it took ALOT of trial and error (which really mean failures) to figure out what was needed. now I have a spare carb just for testing



Never tried 25% seafoam for emission, I add 91-99% rubbing alcohol (2 bottles per half gal) in units that severely fail, but i dont recommend it. but you do what you gotta do
 

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you are welcome,

I am 4 for 4. however it took ALOT of trial and error (which really mean failures) to figure out what was needed. now I have a spare carb just for testing



Never tried 25% seafoam for emission, I add 91-99% rubbing alcohol (2 bottles per half gal) in units that severely fail, but i dont recommend it. but you do what you gotta do
The rubbing alcohol makes it really, really lean. That will definately crash CO readings. Next timre try E85 instead. Does the same thing without the water.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thannks for your replies! A new carb from R Ayers is $300. The parts total to around $100, but I have since found "carb kits" that contain almost all I need (except float pin, main jet cover, and possibly something I missed), The "carb kit" is $24.00 and fits TWs from '87 to '00. carb kit link What do you experts think of the carb kit?" Thanks again! Mark
 

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Carb kit doesn't work. Jets and needles are incorrect. I got the same kit on eBay. Alot of people on the boards here have. I would either order those parts directly from a Yamaha supplier, or buy a new carb. Yes the old style carb is over $300. Get the newer CV carb and the correct boots like I did. Cost you $300 tops, for a better carb - definitely worth it.
 

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Thannks for your replies! A new carb from R Ayers is $300. The parts total to around $100, but I have since found "carb kits" that contain almost all I need (except float pin, main jet cover, and possibly something I missed), The "carb kit" is $24.00 and fits TWs from '87 to '00. carb kit link What do you experts think of the carb kit?" Thanks again! Mark
if the 24 dollar kit is a Keyster kit, this is what I know

1. Needle, needle seat and screen are good.

2. the main jet is marked 116, BUT infact is larger than the Yamaha 118 but smaller than the yamaha 120 jet

3. pilot jet is really close but a little bigger

4. pilot screw is close but ok

5. the jet needle has a different taper profile.. and has a multple positions to set the height

6. the needle jet has a diffferent amount of holes and the size/position are different

7. comes with a round o-ring for the float bowl gasket, its eactly the right size but not pre-formed so its a beach to use.

everything else seems to be ok,

if you use it, the tw will run good, it will be rich, not a bad thing just not perfectly tuned

just my experience



ps, you can make a float pin out out ss nail. cut 2-3 mm longer than the outside width of the pin holders and flare one end slightly so it will hold in place once you press it in. works like a charm



btw there is no substitute for factory OEM yamaha parts
 
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