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If you want to boost your octane, add toluene to your fuel. Mix at 5% with gas and work your way up until knocking goes away. It's available at any paint store and most hardware stores. (Until the government decides it's too harmful...)

Just google 'toluene fuel additive' for more info.

A friend of mine turned me onto it when he started mixing it for his dirt bike.
 

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Betty Boop got some new organic brake pads today but front shows less than ideal braking after a test ride...hmmm. Will re-bleed and re-test. Stainless lines or a different set of pads may be needed.
I've never had good success bleeding front discs on motorcycles until someone showed me how to PUSH the fluid UP from the caliper to the master cylinder. No bubbles that direction can be trapped. It makes a bit of a mess, so have a pan ready to catch the master's overflow, but is sure produces results.
 

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Repaired a busted off digital tach I mounted to the front brake master cylinder that broke when my grandson was sitting on the bike in the garage Sunday. Works as good as new!
 

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I’d like to see what that digital tach looks like.
Prepared to be disappointed. Ha! It's just a cheapo I got from Amazon for around $6 or so. I use one screw from the master cylinder lid to attach it.
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Last one is of the bike over all. I just tiled the garage floor. It is hard plastic with a foam underlayment. This will make working in the garage this winter much more comfortable than the concrete. Cheers!
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Break down and buy a utrasonic cleaner
You need an efficient modern day hammer in your collection..
They work great for guns too..
Mike from NC
They work great of lots of things. Here's a tip;
Ultra sounds travel through zip lock bags. Place the part to be cleaned in a zip lock bag with the cleaning agent. Then fill the ultrasonic cleaner tank with plain water. Place the bag in the tank of water and turn it on. You'll clean the part without soiling the tank and preserving the majority of cleaning solution, only using that amount to saturate the part in the bag.

I use ours like that for cleaning my wife's jewelry and my glasses.
 

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I was going to suggest applying heat, a vice and a 3 lb sledge to the foot section and tweak bend it in some what. But grinding the stop seemed to have helped too. So, never mind.
 
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I'm contemplating the progressive springs, but waiting to hear more feedback on a recent thread how well they fit seeing as they are not specific to the TW200.
With that in mind, I'm contemplating replacing the fork boots with fork dust boot seals. I like the look better and allows me to inspect the wipe section on the inner tube. I ordered a set off eBay for 33mm fork tubes, so it's by guess and by golly if they even fit. But for $10 free ship, worth a try.
I also found a set of bleeder taps for my fork caps. They release air pressure with the push of a button. You do NOT add air to forks, you equalize it. Air will expand with heat, allowing the forks to pump up and get stiff. Same with altitude climb; the air in the fork tubes will pressurize. The problem with this is that it will blow out the fork seals and cause them to leak. So will overfilling the forks with oil. More oil seems to help dampen, but too much will blow the seals out, same as too much air. Add both and you'll learn how to tear down the whole fork assembly to replace the seals.
I'll need to tap the caps with M5 to install the bleeder buttons.
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