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Today I decided I don’t like the looks of the stock turn signals. So I stopped by cyclegear and grabbed these cheap ones. I think they look nice.
Anyone know Of any signals that use the same diameter stalk and oem for the rear? I have a rack that uses the stalk as support so I wanna keep it same sized
206339
 

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Today I decided I don’t like the looks of the stock turn signals. So I stopped by cyclegear and grabbed these cheap ones. I think they look nice.
Anyone know Of any signals that use the same diameter stalk and oem for the rear? I have a rack that uses the stalk as support so I wanna keep it same sized View attachment 206339
those look really slick! i will have to pick me up a pair. thanks for sharing.
 

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Pro cycle has them on sale for $14.99 a pair. They have 2 wire and 3 wire versions. I did away with the running lights as I have plans to use that circuit.
 

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Pro cycle has them on sale for $14.99 a pair. They have 2 wire and 3 wire versions. I did away with the running lights as I have plans to use that circuit.
I use these also since they look close to stock and come with a three wire option.
 

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Same ones. Same model just 3 wire. Now if only I could find a way to keep the same stalk diameter for my tears I’d be in business
Just use a washer to make up the different size. Or use a shoulder washer. Not exactly sure what part you are talking about. The stalk is the rubber part. Do you mean the diameter of the threaded part?
 

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Removed and cleaned Main Nozzle and Pilot Jet in an effort to fix a cutting out issue - didn't work. So I ordered a complete carb rebuilt kit from Ebay. Then I got myself onto Rocky Mountain ATV to order a new carb-to-engine boot, a new diaphragm set, and also the "Baffle Plate" which I noticed was missing from my carb! A quick search on the forum suggests that this missing part could explain why the bike seems to lose all power over the washboard roads. I'm rather sure that my issue is related to the 87's CDI unit. But it's much cheaper to try a carb rebuild first just to be sure.
 

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Well, I think I found the problem! Tried to pull the Valve Seat for cleaning - stuck! Really, really stuck! I had to break out the large vise grips on order to remove it. What did I discover, you ask??? A whole lot of dirt and crud. I can't even believe this bike was running...Rebuild kit arrives tomorrow!


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Unless you removed it already, the needle valve seat (the piece your holding) should have an o-ring as well. Without the o-ring, you may (I did) experience leaking fuel out of your overflow tube. Very inconvenient when this happens on the trail. I got to find that one out while on a ride. Argh!
 

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Install an inline filter if you haven't. Anything you can do to keep the carb clean.
Got one! I actually installed a 90 degree filter almost as soon as I got the bike so I don't think the valve seat had been cleaned or even removed for a LONG time. It ended up getting crushed by the vise grips during the twisting/rocking that was required to pull it from the carb.
 

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Fuel line and 90 degree filters seem to die prematurely if carb or tank get removed frequently. I'm buying two next time for a spare in line with my theory of "Get two, one to use, one to loose".

Today I continued the never ending saga of headlighting options by replacing a HID H4 bulb with the old failed lo beam LED. Then this afternoon new LED arrived so I disassembled & swapped that in instead . Though repetition this is getting to be a 5 minute job to get headlight on the bench disassembled and ready for next experiment. Left to right: Hella H4 Halogen a good upgrade fro stock. Xenon HID, bright but slow cycling and who needs the high voltage? Next pair of new 4-sided LED bulbs.
Last is 3 sided pylon that with a failed Lo-beam chip "only" puts about about 5,000 lumens.
LIGHTS ALL.jpg


Need to test after dark but here is Hella Halogen:
LIGHT HALOGEN HI.jpg


HID, not much better:
LIGHTS HID LO .jpg


Installation was easy so things came up roses.
lights rose.jpg


Now to once agin go re-aim since every bulb is a bit different .
Good excuse for another night ride.
 

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Me too, am curious 4 side vs 3 side results. Reddave and I expect a full report on our desktop BEFORE Monday morning!
 
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Initial impressions were very illuminating.:cool:

4-side LED H4 Lo beam. Good mid-distance uniformity but up-close whiskers to left and right are odd.
light new lo.jpg


New 4-sided Hi Beam H4 LED
light new hi + .jpg


A little adjustment might fine tune things but I think I'll be able to find my way.(y)

Maybe I should get some of these for the fleet
 

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I rode mine home from the dealership today and immediately installed IMS foot pegs!

Congrats on the new bike and welcome to the forum!


Marty
 

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Initial impressions were very illuminating.:cool:

4-side LED H4 Lo beam. Good mid-distance uniformity but up-close whiskers to left and right are odd.
View attachment 206373

New 4-sided Hi Beam H4 LED
View attachment 206374

A little adjustment might fine tune things but I think I'll be able to find my way.(y)

Maybe I should get some of these for the fleet
Wow, that is an impressive high beam! Really throws some light down the road. My factory bulb has noticeable whiskers like that but at the moment can't remember if more prevalent on high or low beam.

Curious if you checked the wattage draw on low vs high beam.

Thanks for the rapid report, Fred! Hope you post a link to the new bulbs.

Marty
 
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I have often wondered what it would be like to have a more efficient light mounted – but I suspect that once you have a bright white light that “dazzles”, you the rider are equally blinded to anything the light is not shining at

Freds last pic shows much more road without returning the light in a blinding way, allowing for a more natural peripheral vision, even at night …..
 
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