[Beewerks]

Hey everyone, I know this subject has been discussed before, but search won't let me look for anything less than for characters, so oil won't work.

Anyway, I am doing the first oil change on my '05 TW and was wondering if I should get a certain oil, or if any motorcycle oil in general will work? I'm not sure which weight to buy, I plan on ridding the bike through most of the upcoming winter if that makes a difference. Also, I heard that switching to synthetic might not be a bad idea to make shifts smoother? Any thoughts and suggestions are appreciated!

 

[uktw125]

Type this into google. site:tw200forum.com oil



And get yourself a comfy chair and cup of coffee.

 

[Beewerks]

Aha, so that's how you do it... Thanks!

 

[sorethumb]

Mobil 1 Racing 4T.

 

[qwerty]

Mobil 1 Racing 4T.

If the bike has over 2000 miles on it. If not, stick with a dino oil blended specifically for motorcycles, such as Valvoline 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil.

 

[Beewerks]

It's got just under 9000 miles on it right now. I'm assuming from what all I've read that 10W-40 is the best viscosity to go with?

 

[Turtle Chaser]

I have used many brands and different weights. I truly believe 10w40 is too light for the T-dub unless you ride in cold weather. I like 20w50 and feel it offers greater protection. A good 20w50 synthetic will flow as well or better than 10w40 dino at low temps. There, JMHO and I didn't mention any brand names!

 

[qwerty]

Ester-based synthetic formulated for motorcycles with a wet clutch.



10W40 from colder-n-a-welldigger's-butt to kinda-hot.

20W50 from watt-wunnerful-whether-wee-bin-havin to hotter-n-hades.



None of that desulfered dino base fake synthetic or oil for semis trucks.

 

[frogger199]

I've been using the Yamalube 4M 20w-40 marine oil. I figure if it can work in a marine environment, on an outboard that has to operate from takeoff to full speed in just one gear, that it should be about perfect for the TW.



http://suncoastmarineoil.com/yamalube2-strokemarineoil2mgallonnorthern.aspx

 

[uktw125]

I've been using the Yamalube 4M 20w-40 marine oil. I figure if it can work in a marine environment, on an outboard that has to operate from takeoff to full speed in just one gear, that it should be about perfect for the TW.



http://suncoastmarineoil.com/yamalube2-strokemarineoil2mgallonnorthern.aspx

Don't outboards run quite cool because they never heat up the coolant, the water is constantly renewed from the sea, and they don't have wet cluches.

Stick with motorcycle specific oil.

I am only thinking aloud, so someone put me right if I'm talking nonsense.

 

[qwerty]

Don't outboards run quite cool because they never heat up the coolant, the water is constantly renewed from the sea, and they don't have wet cluches.

Stick with motorcycle specific oil.

I am only thinking aloud, so someone put me right if I'm talking nonsense.

Correct. Over the past few years oils have become extermely specialized. There are a dozen or more different Mobil 1 oils for different types of vehicles. Same goes for Rotella, none of which I'd use in a motorcycle any more. Castrol Racing 4T Motorcycle Oil is not equivalent to Mobil 1 Racing 4T Motorcycle Oil, either, as it is dino-based "synthetic" rather than ester-based based synthetic. API classifications are no longer backwards compatible, as builders of race engines with flat tappets can assert--many damaged cams from improper lube properties of "Low Emission" oils that no longer contain extrme pressure additives since they are not necessary for engines with roller followers. Extreme pressure additives are becoming so small a part of some oils' additive packages many older vehicles are carted off to junkyards due to cam failure. Many wet clutches succumb to slippery additives in "Energy Conserving" oils. Only ester-based true synthetics can meet the new "Energy Conserving" and "Low Emission" requirements and still work in TWs.

 

[rm_hm]

http://tw200forum.com/forums/39747/ShowPost.aspx