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Discussion Starter #1
I can't seem to find the thread on what oil is available from Walmart. I think it was Rotella but I'm not sure what type to buy.
 

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For my DR60 I get the gallon jug of Rotella T-6
 

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JASO-MA
Both Rotella T 15W-40 conventional and, Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic both list the JASO MA standard; this information can be found on the bottle adjacent to the SAE/API rating stamp. JASO is an acronym that stands for "The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization." Note that the 10W-30 conventional oil does not list JASO-MA.
Likewise with motorcycles.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Z. I'm here at Walmart and just picked up a Gal. U are the Man:D
 

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TP...whatever you do, do NOT buy the Rotella to put inside the TW200 engine. Maybe you are using it for some other engine...but NOT the TW200 engine.

I mean....have you ever seen zdiver1...and what the use of that oil has done to "him" :p
I use Rotella T 15W40 in my Sportster, all of my small Hondas, and my Kawasaki atv. What is the problem with using it in my TW?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I use Rotella T 15W40 in my Sportster, all of my small Hondas, and my Kawasaki atv. What is the problem with using it in my TW?
Wecsog. there's a joke in there somewhere. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I get my Mobil 4T Racing in 10W40 from Wallyworld. It's the only oil I will use in the TW after break-in.
I would like to use this oil but I have a base gasket weep. I bought the 15w40 so it don't weep so fast.
 

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TP...whatever you do, do NOT buy the Rotella to put inside the TW200 engine. Maybe you are using it for some other engine...but NOT the TW200 engine.

I mean....have you ever seen zdiver1...and what the use of that oil has done to "him" :p

I get confused easily. And certain topics brought up in this forum (oil/tires/jets/sprockets) seem to bring it out even worse. Statements and opinions bouncing all over the place, but, unless I haven't found it, no where that nails any of it to the floor.

---No disrespect zdiver, I am not trying to paraphrase, I just do not know how to do a double quote.---

zdiver states that it (oil can) should have "JASO-MA" on the label. Now it does not say "JASO-MA" on the Rotella T 15w40 oil, but it does have a "MA". Is this the same?

Shell Rotella® Products - Shell Rotella

I am running this (15w40) oil. I run this because I run it in a lot of different equipment and when something needs a top off, I don't want to second guess, or try to remember, what I put in what.

I have read TWilight runs Mobil 1 (I believe this is correct, if not, please slap me correct), but what is wrong with the Rotella? I have been hanging around this thread waiting for an explanation, but have not heard what the reasoning is for not using it.

Again, no disrespect to anyone, I was just curious.

Thank you in advance.

Jeff
 

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Not so much really... I have seen this stuff first hand, watched a buddy wreck his wet clutch on a pretty new GSXR when he put car oil in it after an oil change. Didn't work out too well for him.

I have and will continue to do (as querty says) put oil that has a picture of a motorcycle on the bottle in my bikes, all of them.

/rant
I just don't understand the issue with using motorcycle oil in a motorcycle that some folks seem to have. It makes no sense to me to buy something and then try to cheap out on the maintenance of said thing. I have seen that strategy backfire plenty of times. My buddy with his GSXR is a fine example or a guy in my old fishing club that burned up a $15,000 outboard because he wanted to use the cheapest oil he could put into it. That just makes no sense to me, none and it seems like false economics.

The outboard is a great example. His outboard was a 200hp Merc optimax same as mine. The supertech brand oil he was using was a lot thinner then the merc branded oil that i use in mine and cost about half as much. The issue is he burned that oil about double the rate i did 25:1(him) vs 50:1(me), his also looked like an insect fogger when it ran and mine did not. 2 Stroke outboards burn a lot of oil so i can see the "want" for savings( reason i buy my oil in bulk on sale) but when you are burning it at a rate of 2:1 vs someone that has the same motor where is the "savings" over buying the right stuff. To top it all off that extra burnt oil caused massive carbon buildup that popped his powerhead at ~100 hours, out of warranty and a 5k bill. It was not a lubrication related failure per-se but the excess oil burning and subsequent carbon buildup caused it. My motor on the other hand is still running strong with over 1500 hours on it and i beat the snot out of it, and have for almost the last 10 years. Who made out better? I would say me by a long shot.

I see the same thing with bikes. My Ducati cost over 20 grand to buy why would i ever want to put something in it that was not designed for it? My truck wants 0-20 dexos oil and guess what, im going to put 0-20 dexos oil in it. I don't pretend to know more than the guys that built it. Maybe that's why i spend more time riding my bikes than wrenching on them or more time fishing than bringing my boat to the marina.

Another way to look at it, mobil 1 for bikes is ~9.99 a quart so its ~$2.00 more then a synthetic car oil. If i change the oil twice a year it cost me an extra 4 bucks. If you dust one clutch using car oil you just spent over 15 years worth of that extra $4 to fix something that's totally preventable. Kill a transmission over 100 years worth of that extra $4.

/rant over
 

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Not so much really... I have seen this stuff first hand, watched a buddy wreck his wet clutch on a pretty new GSXR when he put car oil in it after an oil change. Didn't work out too well for him.

I have and will continue to do (as querty says) put oil that has a picture of a motorcycle on the bottle in my bikes, all of them.

/rant
I just don't understand the issue with using motorcycle oil in a motorcycle that some folks seem to have. It makes no sense to me to buy something and then try to cheap out on the maintenance of said thing. I have seen that strategy backfire plenty of times. My buddy with his GSXR is a fine example or a guy in my old fishing club that burned up a $15,000 outboard because he wanted to use the cheapest oil he could put into it. That just makes no sense to me, none and it seems like false economics.

The outboard is a great example. His outboard was a 200hp Merc optimax same as mine. The supertech brand oil he was using was a lot thinner then the merc branded oil that i use in mine and cost about half as much. The issue is he burned that oil about double the rate i did 25:1(him) vs 50:1(me), his also looked like an insect fogger when it ran and mine did not. 2 Stroke outboards burn a lot of oil so i can see the "want" for savings( reason i buy my oil in bulk on sale) but when you are burning it at a rate of 2:1 vs someone that has the same motor where is the "savings" over buying the right stuff. To top it all off that extra burnt oil caused massive carbon buildup that popped his powerhead at ~100 hours, out of warranty and a 5k bill. It was not a lubrication related failure per-se but the excess oil burning and subsequent carbon buildup caused it. My motor on the other hand is still running strong with over 1500 hours on it and i beat the snot out of it, and have for almost the last 10 years. Who made out better? I would say me by a long shot.

I see the same thing with bikes. My Ducati cost over 20 grand to buy why would i ever want to put something in it that was not designed for it? My truck wants 0-20 dexos oil and guess what, im going to put 0-20 dexos oil in it. I don't pretend to know more than the guys that built it. Maybe that's why i spend more time riding my bikes than wrenching on them or more time fishing than bringing my boat to the marina.

Another way to look at it, mobil 1 for bikes is ~9.99 a quart so its ~$2.00 more then a synthetic car oil. If i change the oil twice a year it cost me an extra 4 bucks. If you dust one clutch using car oil you just spent over 15 years worth of that extra $4 to fix something that's totally preventable. Kill a transmission over 100 years worth of that extra $4.

/rant over
Uhhhh.........sounds like he burnt it up using the wrong weight of oil.......not kind :)

Now on to motorcycle specific oils. Your engine has no idea what its bolted into. Their parts work together just like any other engine. One place where motorcycle engines are different is that the clutch is bathed in the same oil the engine uses. Back before catalytic converters many oils had high levels of zinc and phosphorus, these make all your moving parts very happy :) One bad thing, they play havoc on catalytic converters. So, they got rid of the zinc and phosphorus and started adding other friction modifiers so your moving parts could be happy again. But damm...............they screw up my clutch in my shared sump motorcycle! Boom, cash cow opportunity for the oil people, we will sell you this regular oil without all the friction modifiers in it (cheaper for them) AND CHARGE YOU MORE FOR THE PRIVILEGE! We will put a nice picture of a motorcycle on the bottle so nobody will have a problem paying more for less because they will know they are doing the right thing :) Now not all auto oils have friction modifiers that screw with your clutch, it can be hit or miss to know which ones. So the motorcycle oils do do that for you.

But I prefer TO HAVE friction modifiers in my oil because its GOOD for the engine. Step in Rotella T, its an oil that is formulated for diesels, diesels dont have catalytic converters so no worries of cloging them with zinc. Rotella has a good amount of zinc in it. So its better for my engine than ANY motorcycle oil, its cheap and available EVERYWHERE.

Now I dont think Ive ever been successful in changing anyone's mind about motorcycle oils, they use it and will defend it to the death, kinda like amsoil people. But if you have never bought oil for any motorcycle, do your research and choose what makes ya feel good :)
 

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Uhhhh.........sounds like he burnt it up using the wrong weight of oil.......not kind :)

Now on to motorcycle specific oils. Your engine has no idea what its bolted into. Their parts work together just like any other engine. One place where motorcycle engines are different is that the clutch is bathed in the same oil the engine uses. Back before catalytic converters many oils had high levels of zinc and phosphorus, these make all your moving parts very happy :) One bad thing, they play havoc on catalytic converters. So, they got rid of the zinc and phosphorus and started adding other friction modifiers so your moving parts could be happy again. But damm...............they screw up my clutch in my shared sump motorcycle! Boom, cash cow opportunity for the oil people, we will sell you this regular oil without all the friction modifiers in it (cheaper for them) AND CHARGE YOU MORE FOR THE PRIVILEGE! We will put a nice picture of a motorcycle on the bottle so nobody will have a problem paying more for less because they will know they are doing the right thing :) Now not all auto oils have friction modifiers that screw with your clutch, it can be hit or miss to know which ones. So the motorcycle oils do do that for you.

But I prefer TO HAVE friction modifiers in my oil because its GOOD for the engine. Step in Rotella T, its an oil that is formulated for diesels, diesels dont have catalytic converters so no worries of cloging them with zinc. Rotella has a good amount of zinc in it. So its better for my engine than ANY motorcycle oil, its cheap and available EVERYWHERE.

Now I dont think Ive ever been successful in changing anyone's mind about motorcycle oils, they use it and will defend it to the death, kinda like amsoil people. But if you have never bought oil for any motorcycle, do your research and choose what makes ya feel good :)
2 cycle oils are not generally rated in weight, most are 20. Modern outboards require tcw3 oil and that's it. Some are a little thinner but that's not the issue in general it's being mixed with fuel in tiny quantities but when your oil/fuel mixture goes way up it causes carbon buildup which is death for a 2 stroke. Some brands also have better anti carbon additives than others and that plays a roll too.

Shared sump Motorcycle engines also have a transmission as well and thus have a different requirement for lubrication. You wouldn't go putting motor oil in the transmission of your car why would you do that on your bike?

On a tw we are talking 10s of dollars in cost difference over the effective life of the bike. It's not worth it.
 

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Mobil 1 15W-50 Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 1 qt. - Walmart.com
$7.98 is not bad for full synth m/c oil, it's not at every location though....
Back in about '05, I was using Mobil1 V-Twin in my Sportster 1200. The problem was that it was difficult to find locally. I read on some forum that Mobil1 15w50 car oil was the same thing, and that some were running it in motorcycles with good results. It was (iirc) 2/3 the price of the V-Twin stuff and much easier to find, so I ran it. As soon as I started running it, my oil light started coming on when the engine was hot. I couldn't find anything wrong, so assumed that my sending unit or its wiring had developed a problem. Long story short, I should have immediately drained that oil and used just about anything else because my pistons quickly wore down until they were rattling in the cylinders and I had to rebuild my engine.

When I told my friends about it, I found that one of them had tried it in his big block Chrysler drag car, with the same result: loss of oil pressure as soon as it got hot.
I had previously had a few expensive problems with gearboxes that coincidentally happened shortly after putting Mobil1 gear oil in them.

As a result of these experiences, although I once believed Mobil1 was the best oil money could buy, I now avoid it like the plague.

OTOH I have never had anything but good results from Castrol products, in the 35 years I have been using them.
 
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