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Discussion Starter #1
I've made no adjustments to the carb yet -- it is still stock, but I'm going to start. I thought I'd just order a 128 and 130 jet both, but then I figured I'd make a thread out of it just for fun.



Color of plug:



I don't think there's any doubt it is too lean; white at the tip and light tan around the rest.



What do you think -- 128 or jump to 130? I'd tell you what altitudes I ride, but that'd be cheating.











Oh, and while I was taking that pic, I heard a noise, looked up and saw this little guy:

 

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If it's lean, it ain't that bad. I'm hoping it's the newer style carb if you're wanting anything above 120.



But, in the style of Dr. House, I'll take a gander. Profile picture plus a flat fender truck with just surface rust says Mojave. With that in mind, elevation is hard to figure, but you've got a range from around 2k to 10k, and stock is honestly fine for that. It's really better as you go up, so I'm guessing you play on the lower side of that elevation, in which case I'd say get the 128 and no more. It will give a good bump to idling and stuff down low, and a subtle improvement up high, usually just enough. A couple shims and some holes drilled in the airbox will get you leaner for the high stuff, but really your stock 125 or 126 is gonna be better as you climb higher.



I'd recommend maybe just shimming before you even try jetting up, but it won't hurt to have a couple more jets around. The 130 is overkill unless you're looking for low elevation performance though.



Maybe consider a Dial-a-jet?



I'd like to see more of that truck, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If it's lean, it ain't that bad. I'm hoping it's the newer style carb if you're wanting anything above 120.



But, in the style of Dr. House, I'll take a gander. Profile picture plus a flat fender truck with just surface rust says Mojave ... I'd like to see more of that truck, though.
The avatar is from a vacation. Don't let it throw a wrench into the works.



It is the newer style carb. It's a 2012.



I'm pretty sure the Willys lived in a barn for a while. It needs a bit of work. I was going to sell it due to my bend-over being being broken but I may have found something that'll allow me to be mobile enough to work on it, so now I'm thinking about working on it again.



A few more pics of the pickup: http://s827.photobucket.com/albums/zz195/retmotor/Willys/
 

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The avatar is from a vacation. Don't let it throw a wrench into the works.



It is the newer style carb. It's a 2012.



I'm pretty sure the Willys lived in a barn for a while. It needs a bit of work. I was going to sell it due to my bend-over being being broken but I may have found something that'll allow me to be mobile enough to work on it, so now I'm thinking about working on it again.



A few more pics of the pickup: http://s827.photobuc...etmotor/Willys/


I stand by the 128 for your jetting needs. Just get some of the needle shims to go with it and adjust the mix a bit maybe.



Now that Willys looks awesome. I wish I could find something like that, or a Reo or International. Just something to show how we used to make things here.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have a buddy who has two REOs. Right now they're yard art, but he has plans for them. I will say they are a special kind of cool. If they were maintained they look like they'd run forever.



128 it is. I'll order it tomorrow and take the advice on the needle shims and the air/fuel mix. Thank you!



Info: It's not really a secret -- I'm at 3500 feet here.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Will do. Ordered it this a.m.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yea for the local Yamaha shop. The jet came in today. $4.90. I figured it'd be more.
 

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Does anyone know what size jets come stock on the 2012 and 2013 models? Are they replaced by removing the bottom bowl? What jets are recommended for 8,000 to 12,000 ft elevation? Why do you need shims?
 

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Does anyone know what size jets come stock on the 2012 and 2013 models? Are they replaced by removing the bottom bowl? What jets are recommended for 8,000 to 12,000 ft elevation? Why do you need shims?


The new models are probably 126, you remove the bowl to replace them, the stock should be good at elevations that high. It's closer to sea level that it runs a little poorly. Shims are a quick fix to dial in between jet sizes, typically to improve midrange throttle.



Not sure why you're asking, but you're probably good to go at those elevations with a stock bike.
 

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The new models are probably 126, you remove the bowl to replace them, the stock should be good at elevations that high. It's closer to sea level that it runs a little poorly. Shims are a quick fix to dial in between jet sizes, typically to improve midrange throttle.



Not sure why you're asking, but you're probably good to go at those elevations with a stock bike.
 

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To really simplify things, have yourself a 126, a 128, a 130, and the 132.5, along with a bag of shims. You can mix and match on the fly. Maybe a spare carb bowl gasket in case you spring a leak. Those jets and shims will give you peace of mind that you're set for any elevation on the TW and can tune the thing to a tee to match. If I ever (Lord willing) get myself a Tdub again, I would consider it worth the few dollars to have all of those on hand.



One thing to consider is that if you're removing the bowl often, replace the screws that hold it on with some SS allen heads. I believe they're an M4-1, but don't quote me on that. There's a list on here somewhere of sizes for the commonly used fasteners. Also if you're doing carb stuff often, a JIS set of screwdrivers will help. I can't remember if it's a 1, 2, or 3, but one of them will keep you from stripping your drain screw if you try using a regular phillips head.



Just read the carb tuning sticky (I sure hope that one is pinned considering all the pinned topics we have) and you should know so much it hurts.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Does anyone know what size jets come stock on the 2012 and 2013 models? Are they replaced by removing the bottom bowl?...


The stock jet in my 2012 is a 126. Yes on the bowl. Can be done with the carb on the bike. Replace the phillips fasteners (the head is soft) with 4mm x 16mm .70 thread pitch (16mm is the closest Ace had -- they should be a couple millimeters shorter. At 16mm, the right rear fastener you may have to trim or use a couple small flat washers for clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
...Not sure why you're asking, but you're probably good to go at those elevations with a stock bike.
Considering my altitude (3500ft) and my lean condition, I too would guess you're good or very close to good with the stock 126 unless you have symptoms of rich or lean (see qwerty's carb sticky).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update:



Finally got to get her out on the highway today with the 128 jet in (no other modifications -- qwerty's rule -- only tinker with one thing at a time). Throttle response felt much, much smoother throughout the power band with perhaps just a bit more oomph. Before the change, I did have just a hint of surging under throttle and that is now gone. I did not notice a difference in top end speed. 126 to 128 made more of a difference than I thought it would.
 

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I put a 128 in mine today and it is great. I am also using 3 shims. 2 1/2 turns out on the pilot. I'm at 400' MSL.



The first time I messed with the carb I took out the stock 126 and just went and stuck in a 130 main and 5 shims. It ran like crap! I learned the hard way to Follow qwerty's guide. There are no short cuts tuning a carb. I'm dense and have to learn the hard way, what can I say?



I was having problems with the bike cutting off at high rpm under a load with that setup. Would run really bad in the mountains of TN. It was way too rich.



The stock 126 was too lean!



All fixed now. Took some time and patience but what a difference. Also replace the four (4) float bowl screws with allen heads. I think they are M4-.7 X 14mm. I got them at Lowes. Those JIS Screws (they are not phillips for those who don't know, if they look like a phillips but have a dot then it is a JIS) strip very easily. Besides now I can remove the bowl easily with the carb still on the bike.



Love this site and all the info and tips.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
^ Ah, see I would have called those fasteners phillips. I stripped one the first time out. Ace only had 4mm x 16mm, so I had to trim one. I had to look up JIS screws. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#JIS_B_1012 There's a lot more fasteners out there than I ever thought about. A more informative link on JIS here: http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-Phillips-is-not-a-Phillips/step10/JIS-Japanese-Industrial-Standard/ All falls under the category of stuff I didn't know...



Huh, I would have figured your altitude for a bigger jet -- or maybe that's the different carb? When I was in Vegas (2000') this past winter, I had significant deceleration pops unless I was in the mountains. If we go back this winter and take the bike I was thinking a 130 might be in order.



I'll put a few more miles on her then check the plug again, but it seems the 128 is right for this altitude. It sure does run better. Then the next step -- needle height




Edit: Found a review that says 2001 was the first year for the new carb.
 
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