I puchased a DID O-ring chain from Lytle Racing Group in Tempe, AZ via ebay. I searched high and low for the best price and Lytle was the best. I was also able to get the chain in 122-links so no cutting involved. Chain installed like a dream. Glad I did it too. It's been close to a year and I haven't made a chain adjustment yet.
I just installed (10 mins ago actually) my DID 428, 15 front, 47 rear combo from Lytle. Will make a post about my 15/47 thoughts once I've ridden a while. That's assuming nothing falls apart and I survive the ride to work in the morning, lol.
Thanks for the info guys. Another question I had was if I move up to a 15 tooth front, will a 122 link chain fit? Or will I need an extra link or two on the chain? Additionally, I am uncertain of the significance of what a "master link" is and if it comes with the purchase of a new chain. Or, rather, is it something I must order separately.
A master link joins the two ends. My purchase came with a master link, I assume they all do. Probably all clip type with this size of chain, like this:
With my old chain, fitting the master link was easy, just assemble by hand on the chain, fit the clip with a good quality pair of pliers (open end away from direction of travel), done. My new o-ring master link turned out to be a 'semi interference fit' and I ended up buying a mini chain press to push it together, before fitting the clip:
I'd think it would still be good. I went from a 50 tooth sprocket to a 47, and my chain adjustment changed from 4.5 to 7. That's a 3 tooth difference (looser) compared to only one tighter with your change.
Thanks for the info guys. Another question I had was if I move up to a 15 tooth front, will a 122 link chain fit? Or will I need an extra link or two on the chain? Additionally, I am uncertain of the significance of what a "master link" is and if it comes with the purchase of a new chain. Or, rather, is it something I must order separately.
I always order my chains a little longer. The TW200 standard chain is 121 links plus master link -s o I order 130 or 132 with two master links.
When I get the chain I cut it to fit this gives me a good fit and I have extra chain and an extra link. I put these into a little bag and carry them with me on trips. Then should my chain break I can use my chain link tools to initiate a field repair.
Here is a link to the krause racig website tool page . Has very useful tools for doing a chain install, especially the chain alignment tool designed to keep your chain and sprockets in perfect alignment to avoid premature failure of sprockets and chains.
First off, you'll bash your head against the wall trying to find cut-to-fit chains for non-OEM sprocket sizes. Learning to cut chains to fit is much easier than trying to figure what link count fits what sprocket combination. A file will do the job. A Dremel makes it easier. A chain breaker tool easier still. Any will be cheaper in the long run than one error in sizing OR paying someone to cut a chain for you every time you need one, both likely outcomes in a search for non-OEM products.
Second, 428 chains fit TW sprockets. Any other size will not fit properly. The 428 designation has nothing to do with how many pins (links) a specific length of chain has. The 428 designation specs the distance between the pin centers, the outside diameter of the rollers, and the inside distance between the plates. Nothing more. Therefore, a size 428 chain is the first thing you must know when ordering a chain.
Third, the second criteria for selecting a chain is tensile strength. The EK 428 SROZ chains I use have a tensile strength of 5300 pounds and cost $55-60. RK's 428SO o-ring chain has a tensile strength of 5500 pounds and cost $65-70. DID Pro V o-ring chains have a tensile strength of 5340 pounds and run $75-80. Any will get the job done.
As far as open chains, I have seen cheap off-brand 428 chains with tensile strengths of 3200 pounds at costs under $10. Parts Unlimited's store brand economy chain has a 4000 pound tensile strength and costs $12-15. the OEM chain seems to be somewhere between these first two. DID Standard Roller Chain has a tensile strength of 4280 pounds and costs $20-25. DID NZ High Performance 428 has a tensile strength of 5740 pounds and is an open chain for those into ultra high performance and costs $50-55, but for just $5 more I can get an EK SROZ 428 with o-rings and cut chain maintenance by 90% and double or triple chain life. It's a no-brainer--the best value for a chain for most people (low maintenance, long life) is obvious.
Fourth, to find a bazillion sources for any particular chain use Google. For instance, type in "SROZ 428" without the quotation marks and the first 10 hits will be online retailers of SROZ 428 chains.
you can get a sidewinder chain in 7000lb-$99.99 or 10,000lb-$109.99 or 12,000lb their web site is messed up and can not see the price and I think they have even stronger.
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