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Discussion Starter #1
Battery is dead on my 2009 TW200. I want to replace the battery with a more powerful lithium battery.
What is the favorite of the forum?
I used search on this forum and google. Can't find a straight answer. Need to ride.
 

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Depends on your location (USA, Australia, UK, Timbuktu et al)

Some members can relate disaster stories for the same brand that others have had success with - and a lot of that is "date related". One generation of a single brand is rarely equal to the next generation, and Lithium batteries are improving and becoming cheaper each year

All I can suggest, is that you choose a brand that has a high turnover (reduces the risk of “old stock”), and from a company that has a fixed guarantee

Not perhaps the answer you were looking for, but at the moment Lithium is a crap shoot as to what you will end up with

I have two new Lithium’s at the moment, but as they’re a recent acquisition, I have no idea of what’s six months down the line …..
 

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Thank you Purple for the honest answer. I've looked everywhere in Canada, but the economics of purchasing one just doesn't make sense, particularly for something that is either unreliable or short life span. I can't justify spending four to six times the price of a lead acid battery. Just not a big enough market compared to the States. Or maybe something to do with duties.
 

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Although I got over four years on my last lead acids, I figured to move with the times and go for Lithium

They’re probably 3 or 4 times the cost of lead acid, but the reliability issue is still the same with lead acid – eg a crap shoot

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-TW-200-E-Trailway-2008-2015-JMT-Lithium-Ion-Battery-YB7BL-FP/152936734690?epid=2088542322&hash=item239bbd5fe2:g:VI8AAOSwICxaoSmP

It’s a “leap of faith” to some degree, but one I was prepared to take for the maintenance issues, the holes in my jeans, the topping up after a fall – the list goes on

With Lithium (if all goes well), there is none of the above, plus they keep their charge for over a year without the need for “topping up” – lighter, smaller, better cranking power – again, the list goes on

For me, it was “time” for an upgrade, as a similar “well known Lithium battery supplier” was almost twice that price a year ago

But as a said earlier, the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and I’ve yet to put this brand through their paces …..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Purple.
I am USA, central Alabama.I bought this on amazon...WPS Featherweight Lithium Ion Battery – Fits: Yamaha TW200 1990–2018.
Sounds like I need to return this and just buy a acid battery.
 

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Why would you return a Lithium battery when you have already got it - the return costs would seem to be prohibitive

Why would you not simply give it a chance

And in case you mean "an over priced re-branded product" – I doubt very much if “Western Power Sports” manufactures their own batteries, and if you look up Lithium batteries with the same power indicators on the top, you’ll soon find out where they’re getting them from

The JMT battery I referred to earlier, looks suspiciously like the WPS version, just with a higher price tag - £70 = $88 – yet WPS wants $100 ?

This is what I meant by “over priced re-branded” – what would concern me more, is that the “red tops” are supposed to be the latest versions …..
 

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I am a subscriber to Consumer Motorcycle News... They have done several stories about Lithium batteries... From people who have bought new Lithium batteries and a few days later, would not even turn over their motorcycle engines... (cold battery).... but most people don't understand that Lithium batteries require very special chargers to keep them working... Here is a good article about that problem... https://www.electronics-notes.com/articles/electronic_components/battery-technology/li-ion-lithium-ion-charging.php
 

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Thank you Tom – although few of us can de-code “Constant current charge: In the first stage of charging a li-ion battery or cell, the charge current is controlled. Typically this will be between 0.5 and 1.0 C. (NB: for a 2 000 mAh battery the charge rate would be 2 000 mA for a charge rate of C). For consumer based LCO cells and batteries, a charge rate of a maximum of 0.8C is recommended.”

As a vaper, I have some experience of Lithium batteries. 3.7’s typically top out at 4.2, and need time to soak that across the cells in motorcycle batteries. Higher charge rates are fine for some batteries, but you still need to let that “soak” across the cells. From the link provided, I can only assume (and I use the term lightly), that the correct charge rate for a 2000mA battery would be around - sorry, my brain just fell out ……

As links go, that has to be about as complicated as Quantum physics, which at least I can get my head around

This in no way reflects on you personally, and if you can explain the above quoted paragraph I take my hat off to you, but this involves learning a whole new language (for me at least), which basically means some Brainiac has found another way of explain the obvious which is utterly incomprehensible to the “average Joe”

As I understand things, the vast majority of Lithium motorcycle batteries come with “over charge” protection, and “under charge protection” – the point at which they will no longer accept a charge, or provide a charge. The best way to treat Lithium, is to charge it “gently, or the charge just stacks up on top of the first cell, giving a false reading. The more modern Lithium’s can transfer the charge across all the cells, but not “throughout” each cell, meaning that the charge is still “on top” of the cells, but not to any “depth”

By lowering the charge rate to around one – maybe one and a half Amps – this gives the batteries time to “soak” up the power to maximum capacity. Even on a “fast charge” which is becoming more promoted these days, the power is still “on top”, which can produce immediate results, but will lack performance in the long run

This is where a charger designed to recognise a Lithium battery is essential, as most chargers will simply read “needs Amps”, and up the charge rate accordingly, which can be death to a Lithium battery – and if “de-sulphate” mode is enabled, eg “high power”, your Lithium is toast (literally)

With Lithium, less is more, and you need a charger that can recognise that

Now, compare that explanation to - “Constant current charge: In the first stage of charging a li-ion battery or cell, the charge current is controlled. Typically this will be between 0.5 and 1.0 C. (NB: for a 2 000 mAh battery the charge rate would be 2 000 mA for a charge rate of C). For consumer based LCO cells and batteries, a charge rate of a maximum of 0.8C is recommended.”

Again, no personal criticism intended (unless you wrote that article), but given the choice, which explanation makes the most sense ? …..
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Doesn't cost me a dime to return it....Amazon prime. So lithium batteries suck?
Two pages and only one so so name recommendation?
Run Forest Run.
Returning POS lithium battery and lithium battery charger. I'll be buying a acid battery locally today!
 

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Have you considered upgrading to an AGM sealed battery? Seems like a good middle of the road improvement. No special chargers required, no spills or refilling of cells. Can be had reasonably priced. You would just need to use foam spacers as i believe they are smaller than the stock battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Have you considered upgrading to an AGM sealed battery? Seems like a good middle of the road improvement. No special chargers required, no spills or refilling of cells. Can be had reasonably priced. You would just need to use foam spacers as i believe they are smaller than the stock battery.
Thanks KLRCris. I'll check it out.
 

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Above discussions seem directed at lithium ion batteries which by and large have been superseded by superior lithium iron phosphate batteries.

Do not confuse the two as they are very much not the same.
Do not evoke the name "Lithium" and think it is a unique identifier!!!
It is like saying "Ford" since a Ford can be anything from a compact sedan to a heavy truck.

LiFePo4 batteries do not suck. They have built in battery protection circuitry many of older lithium ion batteries lack. Your vehicle's charging system need not be disconnected nor replaced to deal with theoretical charging concerns, your bike will not damage the LiFePo4 battery & your LiFePo4 will not damage your bike. Yes, it may damage your wallet but prices do fall with increases in supply & demand.
I have been running two LiFePo4 batteries from different name brand re-sellers for a few years now without any concerns nor special chargers.
 
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