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Discussion Starter #1
Just picked up a 2013 with 109 miles on it. It is stock and I want to ad a rear rack that doesn't interfere with riding a passenger at times. Which rear rack do you recommend and why? Also is there a simple way to cary a small tool kit?

Thanks!

Jeff
 

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For a compact rack – check out Manracks – (cos it’s compact) ;)

For a wider rack – check out “Happy Trails” – (cos it’s the only one we haven’t managed to break) :p
 

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No rear rack should interfere with riding 2 up. I like a big rack that can handle weight so I have had great luck with the Cyclerack brand and have had 7 of them so far. Others here trash them but this is the internet and you can't possibly please all the people all of the time. I never broke one yet but I am not wild and crazy or carrying a big load. Be careful which brand you do buy because if it relies on the strength of the rear sub frame then that makes it good for very little weight. I guess you need to say what it is you want to carry on a rack.

There should be a tool kit inside behind the right side cover where you access the battery. Not a great kit but should have enough tools to get you home except for a catastrophic failure.

GaryL
 

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What's your budget? How much stuff do you think you will carry? Are saddlebags in your future?
 

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I, too, am shopping for a rear rack. I like the looks of the Manrack but I have two questions.
1. On the rack described as "Rack W/Bungie Loops" what are the dimensions of the platform area of the rack?
2. The front mounting brackets look a little whimpy and the back bracket bolts to a weak point on the bike; can this rack carry a 20-25# load day after day?
Thanks
George
 

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All the mounting points are attached to a weak point on the bike – but as it also happens to be where anyone riding pillion will be sitting, the definition of “weak” becomes relative.

If you look at the various bits of metal that the fitting go through, you will see that they have inherent limitations – however, on the TW, these fixing points are the strongest available. Given the platform dimensions of the Manrack, these points are not subjected to “undue sideways or vertical forces”, and are far less likely to fail.

With a larger rear platform (such as the “Cycle rack”), the width of the thing produces sideways twisting (despite being anchored to the rear pegs) that applies more force to the mounting points, which is why so many have failed during “field tests”.

That isn’t to say that a Manrack can’t be overloaded, just that its dimensions tend prohibit this from happening, so it’s far more unlikely to occur.

I have no idea why this situation seems not to occur with the alternative (wide) “Happy Trails” rack, but they must be doing something better than “Cycle racks”.

From personal experience with a Manrack, I can assure you that you can pick up the rear of the bike by the rack and haul it around the place. So that’s the best part of around 80lb (at least) on the uplift capabilities (the whole bike weighs 280lbs). I haven’t got close to that on the “downforce” simply because the platform is small (which in answer to one of your questions, is about as large as it looks from the pictures of one mounted on the bike).

So – Manrack – too small to overload

Cycle rack – too big for its own good - (but with a free replacement guarantee if it does break, but that doesn’t cover the bits of your bike that will also inevitably suffer)

Happy Trails – wide, and haven’t managed to break one yet (we really must try harder).

Your choice …….
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Received the Manracks with bungie loops and the front fork tiedown brackets. Took about 10 mins to install both. The rack seems very sturdy and is just right for camping gear or other items. Right decision for me.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Jeff
 

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I am also a new member. I have Cycle Racks on the front and rear of my TW. Cycle Racks is from Boise so I bought local...I don't overload them, which is possible. You just have to be careful... I mainly ride on Forest Service Roads here in Central Idaho. Primarily for fishing trips. If it is a hunting trip, I use my Polaris 6x6. Although I know a few fellow hunters with TW's who have managed to haul out quarters of deer and elk. Fishing bike.jpg On my TW, I also have two plastic tubes on the back, a Kolpin gas container, a set of saddle bags, and attachments to hold fishing rods.
 

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Nice setup, great pic! Welcome aboard!

I am also a new member. I have Cycle Racks on the front and rear of my TW. Cycle Racks is from Boise so I bought local...I don't overload them, which is possible. You just have to be careful... I mainly ride on Forest Service Roads here in Central Idaho. Primarily for fishing trips. If it is a hunting trip, I use my Polaris 6x6. Although I know a few fellow hunters with TW's who have managed to haul out quarters of deer and elk. View attachment 30813 On my TW, I also have two plastic tubes on the back, a Kolpin gas container, a set of saddle bags, and attachments to hold fishing rods.
 

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I really liked my cycle rack. the down fall was of course the mounting point which eventually broke off. I ended up making a new frame bridge and never looked back.
Untitled by dolphaxel, on Flickr
when I made my own racks I used there mounting point but much thicker material which keeps the rack mount from deforming and breaking off as well
Untitled by dolphaxel, on Flickr
Untitled by dolphaxel, on Flickr
so Im fond of the cycle rack, but I feel the frame really should be modified long term to hold up to the rack
 

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Just ordered the Manracks with bungie loops and also ordered the tie down brackets for the front forks. Thanks for the advice! I'll let you know how it turns out.
I know that ad states bungie loops, but you will find that Rok Straps last 2 to 3 times longer than bungie cords.

Plus they are easier to work with.

Rok straps that stay on my bike are about 3 years old.

Bungie cords i have/had on trailer were starting to break before 2 years old.

dr650_motomule.jpg

Sheesh, i didn't realize this thread was started that long ago.
 
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