Who's got the Best Rack
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363 Posts
Usually the guys that have the best front tire and run the right oil can answer your question. Me? Dunno.
im sure there is a Hidden meaning there but couldn't figure it out
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363 Posts
Stick around, it'll make more sense the longer you're here.I've got both the Manrack and both styles of Cycleracks. They both have their strong points and downsides, depending on what you want to use it for. I prefer the Manrack right now. A milk crate or Pelican would work fine with either.
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120 Posts
I have the rear Manrack with the attachment loops. This rack has helped make so many awesome experiences possible for me. I’m really grateful the guy behind that company took the initiative to create such an awesome product.
Here’s my bike this summer having just pulled up to the gun range. I have prob 85-90 lbs. on there.
![210404]()
Here’s my bike this summer having just pulled up to the gun range. I have prob 85-90 lbs. on there.
I wonder if anyone has any experience with these racks? I can't really tell with the way they mount whether they would add or remove stresses from more fragile subframe areas?
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363 Posts
I have the Tusk rack. Refer to my previous post and substitute Tusk for Manrack. No idea why I went temporarily brain dead and kept calling it a Manrack.
The Tusk is currently my favorite. It's more rigid than the Cyclerack, although both toe in to the lower pegs. Personally, I wouldn't consider a rack without those down-legs for anything more than a few pounds. The TW subframe is a known weak point.
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514 Posts
Not a fan of these racks as half the rack attaches to the sub frame which is no bueno.
I like the Tusk for entry cost and like the Cyclerack also but mo money
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120 Posts
Absolutely incredible. 2,000 miles on a Tdub?!?
One more thing on the Manrack I'd like to mention. When I'm carrying something I always distribute half the weight on my seat and half the weight on the rack. I figure with the 400 lb. total weight capacity for the seats, and the way force exerted downward on the seat actually seems to exert a counterforce to weight on the rack as far as preserving frame integrity goes*, that it's the best way to do things.
*I'm not an engineer, so take this with a grain of salt. Just what I think based on my observations and how I've decided to do things.
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3,497 Posts
BC to BC (The West Coast Ride)
BC to BC (The Pacific Coast Ride) so in 1996, young, dumb and full of square calves, a buddy and i rode our bicycles from british columbia, canada to baja california, mexico, just under 2000 miles that we covered in 7 weeks, 6 on the saddle. fast forward a few years: 2012 my dad and i were on...
www.tw200forum.com
still an awesome ride.
the rack worked great for the trip. i think the extra stress from rough off road riding with all the weight cantilevered out there.. well that's a bad combo.
Has anyone tried the Pricision Rack Precision Motorcycle Racks
My granddaughter has one on her XT250 and it seems pretty stout. Plus we use Mosko Reckless 80 bags which do better with a narrow rack and close fitting side racks.
Mikey
My granddaughter has one on her XT250 and it seems pretty stout. Plus we use Mosko Reckless 80 bags which do better with a narrow rack and close fitting side racks.
Mikey
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976 Posts
I have a Front Manrack - like it - solid, kinda small (drops don't hit it). Perfect size for my use of carrying tire fix stuff, pump, gauze, small first aid kit, 5 feet of SS wire and mid size adjustable wrench and pliers. Nice looking and again very solid.
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5,755 Posts
There is no one situation that fits all, nor one rack. If you are doing an overnighter, I agree with Foundatown that the Manrack is your best bet, together with loading 50/50 across the rear of the seat. Good strong racks that don’t encourage overloading
If you’re going for “expedition” riding, sure, get one of the wider racks, but be careful of how you load it. Too much weight on the far back, on the trail, will break anything. Those things are built for bulk, not weight
And if you’re going for serious expedition riding, then be prepared to spend half of what the entire bike is worth on a decent set of hard panniers. But again, watch your loading, and use common sense, bearing in mind that the bike at that point is three feet wide
Bottom line is, the TW was not designed or meant for long distance stuff, it’s only the farkling we get up to that allows this. Factory rear platform, two pints and your sandwiches. Yamaha rear rack – whatever your rear indicators will take
Who’s got the best rack ? – all of them are as good or bad as their users …….
If you’re going for “expedition” riding, sure, get one of the wider racks, but be careful of how you load it. Too much weight on the far back, on the trail, will break anything. Those things are built for bulk, not weight
And if you’re going for serious expedition riding, then be prepared to spend half of what the entire bike is worth on a decent set of hard panniers. But again, watch your loading, and use common sense, bearing in mind that the bike at that point is three feet wide
Bottom line is, the TW was not designed or meant for long distance stuff, it’s only the farkling we get up to that allows this. Factory rear platform, two pints and your sandwiches. Yamaha rear rack – whatever your rear indicators will take
Who’s got the best rack ? – all of them are as good or bad as their users …….
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589 Posts
This is specifically why I built my own. But, I myself, don't like the long down legs to the passenger foot pegs. I think it looks hokey but, that's just me. So, I tied into the seat mount bracketry way under and in front of the subframe. And, I also tied into the back seat bolts. I haven't figured out a way to actually calculate just what the rack will hold but, I suspect maybe around 20-30 pounds or so. It's seriously strong.
Scott
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120 Posts
Really beautiful fabrication job, Scott. Very sharp.
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