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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 2011 TW200 last week, when I bought it everything was fine to the best of my knowledge at the time. Shortly after buying it I was racing around on the bike, launched a start with a friend. I hit 3rd and I did the bike slowed the acceleration and started making a clicking noise from the engine. I pulled over and shut it off, checked my oil and everything. Tried to start it back up. It didn't start for athe first few times. It started after a minute with the same noise. Having a dead phone and that is was 22:00, I opted to ride home with the clicking. On the ride home, the bike struggled to hold the speed limit of 45mph. Espescially on uphills. It felt very underpowered and no where near as peppy. I was either at a high rpm with the throttle wide open or on a downhill in a higher gear. At times during the ride, I could hold it a differnt speeds and rpms for a short while to get ticking to quiet. The next day, I checked the filter for metal shavings and found a good amount of shining silver shavings. I started the bike and it struggled to idle without me giving throttle. Also when it started with the clutch pull in, it started to pull forward. Giving me the idea that the clutch was shot, honestly probably due to the fact that I am a newer rider. I rode it around the block and went to u-turn when the bike died and would not start. I even tried to bump 3 times it at 15-20 in 2nd but it would run. So i walked it home and it hasn't run since. Also while on the test ride, I confirmed my fact that the gears were shot. Barely shifts, you have to yank on it a couple times to get it to shift anyway. To my knowledge it shifted fine when I bought it and believe it was my ignorant ass that screwed it.

I understand I am a new rider, so I did something wrong please tell me so I don't do it again.

The spark plug fires and looks like its in great condition. I haven't found out how to check and see if the bike is getting enought fuel and would love some techniques. Don't currently have a compression check tool but going to get one if necessary. There is gas in the tank, fuel line is on, kill switch is on, in neutral.

I know the clutch is bad, but wouldn't the bike start in neutral regardless of a shit clutch?
 

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Welcome to the forum!! :D

Did you happen to change the oil and oil filter beforehand? Sounds like your clutch cable is out of adjustment, they don't just go bad just like that.
I bought a 2011 TW200 last week, when I bought it everything was fine to the best of my knowledge at the time. Shortly after buying it I was racing around on the bike, launched a start with a friend. I hit 3rd and I did the bike slowed the acceleration and started making a clicking noise from the engine. I pulled over and shut it off, checked my oil and everything. Tried to start it back up. It didn't start for athe first few times. It started after a minute with the same noise. Having a dead phone and that is was 22:00, I opted to ride home with the clicking. On the ride home, the bike struggled to hold the speed limit of 45mph. Espescially on uphills. It felt very underpowered and no where near as peppy. I was either at a high rpm with the throttle wide open or on a downhill in a higher gear. At times during the ride, I could hold it a differnt speeds and rpms for a short while to get ticking to quiet. The next day, I checked the filter for metal shavings and found a good amount of shining silver shavings. I started the bike and it struggled to idle without me giving throttle. Also when it started with the clutch pull in, it started to pull forward. Giving me the idea that the clutch was shot, honestly probably due to the fact that I am a newer rider. I rode it around the block and went to u-turn when the bike died and would not start. I even tried to bump 3 times it at 15-20 in 2nd but it would run. So i walked it home and it hasn't run since. Also while on the test ride, I confirmed my fact that the gears were shot. Barely shifts, you have to yank on it a couple times to get it to shift anyway. To my knowledge it shifted fine when I bought it and believe it was my ignorant ass that screwed it.

I understand I am a new rider, so I did something wrong please tell me so I don't do it again.

The spark plug fires and looks like its in great condition. I haven't found out how to check and see if the bike is getting enought fuel and would love some techniques. Don't currently have a compression check tool but going to get one if necessary. There is gas in the tank, fuel line is on, kill switch is on, in neutral.

I know the clutch is bad, but wouldn't the bike start in neutral regardless of a shit clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't change the oil before. Haven't yet either since, to my knowledge, crappy oil wouldn't stop the bike from running. I planned to flush and change oil and filter after I fixed it. But figured I shouldn't change it prior because I would just get more metal in it.

Thank you, I will check the cable.

The clutch is the least of my worries, I need the bike to run in neutral and run well. But it doesn't run at all, cranks very well, brand new battery, spark plug is good.

How does one check the fuel system to make sure the carb and everything is flowing smoothly?

Is there any reason the bike wouldn't start, if it does start grind something while it runs, struggle to maintain an idle, have a large loss of torque and power, and make clicking noise from the top end. Is there any problem that would cover all of that or a combination of a shit clutch and something else?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I could see the loss of power and torque being the clutch, I saw it in a number of videos. But why won't it run in neutral? And before when it did run, why did it run like shit with a click from the engine (sounded like top end, could be either or both though)?
 

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When you looked at the oil filter, did you happen to notice whether or not it had four holes in one end?

DSC094382JPG.jpg
View attachment 153274

I worry you may not be getting oil to the top end of the motor. To check this, use this procedure from the service manual of checking oil flow at the gallery bolt. It is on the right side of the engine, just above the spark plug, but facing rearward. Loosen this a couple of turns with a 10mm with the bike running. Don't take it all of the way out or you risk a mess. If oil weeps out, then it is getting to the top end. If not, check that oil filter. If there are no holes in it, it will not let oil to the top end. Remember to tighten the bolt back up, but do it gingerly hand tight, as some have broken the head of the bolt off, even when trying to torque it to spec.

View attachment 153282

I would next check the valves for adjustment, making sure a nut didn't come loose or nothing is broken in there. When the engine is cold, adjust the slack to spec.

The downloadable service manual and many other useful info can be found in our Technical Write-Ups

Good luck, and welcome to the forum.
 

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A few thoughts related to help you better understand your new donkey...

My clutch is sticky when I first fire it up but breaks free immediately. It gives a jolt when I shift from neutral to 1st while holding in the clutch. Grinding reminds me of an issue with the filter. The fact that your filter was catching shavings is a good sign your oil was circulating. The bike shop sold me the wrong one and my motor made grinding screeching noises after roughly 20 miles. Shutting off my engine asap saved my motor. I was lucky. Just a thought but something to be ware of. Also your spark plug can tell you a lot by the color.

It really could be anything (a lot or a little) but I'd be hesitant to do much with it until you have a more professional diagnosis. Maybe someone will chime in who can narrow it down better. Best of luck.
 

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If it's possible you had the wrong oil filter installed before you bought it, you can drop a little 2 stroke oil down the spark plug hole and it may unseize the piston. Once I shut mine down and tried to start it up later it seized as well and wouldn't start. You'll want to replace it with the right filter and fresh oil. I did this and the shop found no damage in mine. But I shut off quickly and got lucky. I wouldn't be in a hurry to try and start it up until you know for sure though. If this is the case it's likely you at least have damaged pistons rings.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, the bike won't start. I did what you said with the gallery bolt; took it all the way out in fact and cranked it incase the similar activity might throw some oil out of it. Nothing came out.

I proceeded to take the two 2 inch covers off the top end, one is on front side the other is on the back. I'm pretty sure they house the top of the piston springs? It appears to be well lubricated. I also took the housing for the top portion of the timing chain off, it too looks in good condition and well lubed.

When you looked at the oil filter, did you happen to notice whether or not it had four holes in one end?

View attachment 153274

I worry you may not be getting oil to the top end of the motor. To check this, use this procedure from the service manual of checking oil flow at the gallery bolt. It is on the right side of the engine, just above the spark plug, but facing rearward. Loosen this a couple of turns with a 10mm with the bike running. Don't take it all of the way out or you risk a mess. If oil weeps out, then it is getting to the top end. If not, check that oil filter. If there are no holes in it, it will not let oil to the top end. Remember to tighten the bolt back up, but do it gingerly hand tight, as some have broken the head of the bolt off, even when trying to torque it to spec.

View attachment 153282

I would next check the valves for adjustment, making sure a nut didn't come loose or nothing is broken in there. When the engine is cold, adjust the slack to spec.

The downloadable service manual and many other useful info can be found in our Technical Write-Ups

Good luck, and welcome to the forum.
 

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Aloha Kevin, we will try to help.
Must be darn frustrating so will not tease you about piston springs which we normally call valve springs. No big deal, we all are learning as part of living every day.
The mentioned clicking and loss of power is not good, sounds like when I had a bent exhaust valve. One way to check if valves are closing properly and that piston is not holed is to test for compression. Without a compression tester you can gauge the engine's relative compression by simply putting finger over open spark plug hole and turn the engine over with the starter motor. Good compression will blow your finger off the hole. Anything less is a sign of mechanical trouble. Peering into spark plug hole with a bright flashlight can often give a quick inspection of piston top. Should be no holes or debris.
As grewen suggests please download and start reading the manual to help understand and then hopefully fix your TW.Downloadable TW Owners Manuals.
 

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For new, unfamiliar noises coming from the engine, it’s best to discontinue any use until you or a mechanic can rule out stuff that can quickly become catastrophic. I hope your situation is simple and inexpensive to resolve. Cheers
 

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View attachment 153426 DSC094382JPG.jpg Purple is this what you were trying to post?

Welcome to the board

A has been said - don't ride it until you have it fixed - only makes it worse ..... ;)
 

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Purple...if a super mod can't post pictures that work, i'm afraid there is very little hope for mine to post so anyone can see them
 

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VSAdmin have done something to the board in an attempt to get pics to show - but in doing so, they've inadvertently made a mess of the original method

I have as much idea as you - VSAdmin - anyone - as to what's going on here ........

I'm beginning to think Photobucket is Canadian ......
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey guys, thank you for all your help and support. So, the oil filter is good with all 4 portholes. I compared it to @leisuretimelarry images, thank you. The bikes oil was brand new and so is the filter, besides what I have done to it with the shavings.

I have a 2011, does the fact I can't get a manual year newer than a 2008?

Thank you for the compression check tip @fred

I'm going to adjust clutch cable and check compression, if you guys have any other thoughts I'd love to hear them.

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I think it safe to say I have bad compression because instead of blowing my finger off it kinda of sucks it in and gives it a weak blow than doesn't move my finger much.

Any thoughts on how to diagnose this?

Aloha Kevin, we will try to help.
Must be darn frustrating so will not tease you about piston springs which we normally call valve springs. No big deal, we all are learning as part of living every day.
The mentioned clicking and loss of power is not good, sounds like when I had a bent exhaust valve. One way to check if valves are closing properly and that piston is not holed is to test for compression. Without a compression tester you can gauge the engine's relative compression by simply putting finger over open spark plug hole and turn the engine over with the starter motor. Good compression will blow your finger off the hole. Anything less is a sign of mechanical trouble. Peering into spark plug hole with a bright flashlight can often give a quick inspection of piston top. Should be no holes or debris.
As grewen suggests please download and start reading the manual to help understand and then hopefully fix your TW.Downloadable TW Owners Manuals.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Took off valve covers, low and behold on the screw type adjusters the back side is missing the top pin, nut and the pin between the spring and support bar. Any thoughts? lol fml
 

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Took off valve covers, low and behold on the screw type adjusters the back side is missing the top pin, nut and the pin between the spring and support bar. Any thoughts? lol fml
Here are my thoughts.

I can't quite follow all of your description but at the very least, it sounds like you're gonna have to take the valves apart and replace some parts. If you can take a picture and post it that would be very helpful for us to be very helpful. If you have problems posting a picture, pm me and I will give you my email and you can send the pic's to me and I'll post them for you.

In the picture below these parts are ok and am showing them for comparison to yours. Mine was taken apart because of a bent valve because I forgot to tighten the cam shaft sprocket bolt. At least this lesson wasn't costly money wise, just time.


If you have to replace more than just the adjuster and nut, then you'll be looking at removing the head for more valve work. Mentioning as just a heads up. Hopefully, yours is not too bad.





Reasoning for head removal if this is the case is unfortunate but required for replacement.


 
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