Ok so I put the clean carb in and hooked up a brand new battery the nutral light came on the kickstand has a bypass opperation done to it so she is ready to fire!!! I hit the starter button she cranks over nicely but won't start. At this point I'm pissed and concidering a new and unschedualed opperatrion with a sledge hammer to the main jug and sell it for scrap. I tried one more thing I disconected the battery put it aside and tried to kick it on the second kick she fired right up. I let it run a few minutes shut it off and kicked it again and she fired right up. Why is it not starting with the starter with a brand new battery fully charged, But will start when you kick it? And if this is going to be the way to start it can I run it with no battery return it and put the $80 back in my pocket? Any help would be great!!!
Won't start but will???
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You can run it with no battery and the kick starter will start it just fine, but you'll wanna check if you have lights (head, tail, brake, signals). If the lights all worked on my '93 w/o a battery I'd happily run without one as the kicker gets 'er done every time. My battery....flaky at best. It'll go fine on short rides but ride for a hour or more and soon it will be dead. The charging system just isn't doing it's thing to keep my battery charged. I can't explain however why if your battery cranks the starter why it won't start yet the kick start will. Electrical issues always make me wacky...
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Your starter isn't spinning fast enough. You're experiencing the downside of CDI ignition.
Fact: You can get more initial crank speed out of a swift kick than you can ever get from a starter, even when working properly.
At its most basic, you could think of the CDI as a "charge/dump" system. It charges a capacitor based on a voltage generated at the flywheel. The faster the crank speed, the greater the initial voltage generated. It sends this voltage to a capacitor. Shortly after this occurs the crank signals this capacitor to "dump" its stored voltage and produce a spark. It then "dumps" this charged capacitor to send high voltage through the coil to the spark plug. If the initial voltage generated is never high enough to fully charge the capacitor you'll get a feeble spark or none at all when it "dumps".
It's a lot like trying to put out a fire with a 2 gallon bucket but only filling it with one cup of water at a time.
If your crank speed is too low the CDI will repeat this charge/dump/charge/dump cycle over and over without ever producing a full spark, even with the button. The TW is a wasted spark system, so it does this twice every cycle, not just on the compression stroke. Kick it, and "Voila!" More crank speed, more initial voltage, good spark.
IF you're absolutely certain your battery is good and has a full charge, all cables and grounds are tight and CLEAN at the connections both from the battery to ground and to the starter, the first place to look is at the solenoid. The TW solenoid BLOWS, the more often you've cranked on it with a low battery the sooner it will blow, and the newer the bike, the worse it blows. And those poor bastits don't have a kicker.
Fortunately the solenoid is easy to test. Get a`pair of old needlenose pliers or a jumper wire of at least 10 gauge. Turn the key "on" with the bike in neutral and jump the solenoid across the large posts with the plier tips or wire. If it starts, your solenoid is arcing and robbing juice from your starter. Replace it.
If this doesn't cure your problem you need to move on to the starter itself. Aside from a failed or weak component within the CDI itself I find most of these issues to be solenoid related, and I never replace one with a Yamaha part. I use the Kawasaki items for the KLR650, EX500 or almost any other motorcycle that has a real solenoid with a higher amperage rating on the contacts.
Fact: You can get more initial crank speed out of a swift kick than you can ever get from a starter, even when working properly.
At its most basic, you could think of the CDI as a "charge/dump" system. It charges a capacitor based on a voltage generated at the flywheel. The faster the crank speed, the greater the initial voltage generated. It sends this voltage to a capacitor. Shortly after this occurs the crank signals this capacitor to "dump" its stored voltage and produce a spark. It then "dumps" this charged capacitor to send high voltage through the coil to the spark plug. If the initial voltage generated is never high enough to fully charge the capacitor you'll get a feeble spark or none at all when it "dumps".
It's a lot like trying to put out a fire with a 2 gallon bucket but only filling it with one cup of water at a time.
If your crank speed is too low the CDI will repeat this charge/dump/charge/dump cycle over and over without ever producing a full spark, even with the button. The TW is a wasted spark system, so it does this twice every cycle, not just on the compression stroke. Kick it, and "Voila!" More crank speed, more initial voltage, good spark.
IF you're absolutely certain your battery is good and has a full charge, all cables and grounds are tight and CLEAN at the connections both from the battery to ground and to the starter, the first place to look is at the solenoid. The TW solenoid BLOWS, the more often you've cranked on it with a low battery the sooner it will blow, and the newer the bike, the worse it blows. And those poor bastits don't have a kicker.
Fortunately the solenoid is easy to test. Get a`pair of old needlenose pliers or a jumper wire of at least 10 gauge. Turn the key "on" with the bike in neutral and jump the solenoid across the large posts with the plier tips or wire. If it starts, your solenoid is arcing and robbing juice from your starter. Replace it.
If this doesn't cure your problem you need to move on to the starter itself. Aside from a failed or weak component within the CDI itself I find most of these issues to be solenoid related, and I never replace one with a Yamaha part. I use the Kawasaki items for the KLR650, EX500 or almost any other motorcycle that has a real solenoid with a higher amperage rating on the contacts.
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