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Discussion Starter #1
Needs radiators, rear sprocket and chain, and steering bearings.

Was asking $250

He took it apart to ship to Washington from here then wasn’t able to ship home.

It’s sat in a box for a year

I think I can out it together

But it is a basket case so who knows?
 

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Yeah that’s a risk I’d take. I’ve blown a hundo on way worse things. Let us know how it goes. Cheers
 

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The fun in such a basket case will be in figuring out what parts go where depending upon how far he disassembled it. Just my opinion here but I call his story, Put it in a box to ship it as complete BS. I bet shipping an entire bike in numerous smaller boxes would be more expensive than shipping it in one piece. Can any of us imagine all the work involved in tearing it down, packing it all up for shipping and then putting it all back together? This seems to fall under that old saying, You can't fix stupid. I would grab it in a heartbeat and just hope at least 95% of it is all there. Those are very sweet bikes and certainly worth the effort.

GaryL
 
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For a hundred bunks and the chance to have a steal for a WR250... go for it. Yea, parting it out will make your $100 back if it comes to that :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What model year?

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2004 is what he told me. I’ll see the title today. If all goes well I’d like to shoot a little video of putting it back together ?

I was thinking how cool it would be to swap the motor and tranny to the tw frame but it would take some fabrication what with those fancy radiators and all.
 

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One of my close riding friends just recently decided to sell his '11 WR250 he's had since new (and 14K) miles. I would recommend doing the following things before you put the engine in the frame:
1) Replace the cam tensioner. Or better yet install an aftermarket manually-adjustable one.
2) Check the valve clearances. I think Yamaha says not to worry about checking them until over 20K miles since their shim type. We checked the one's on my friends WR at 13K while we had the valve cover off changing the cam chain tensioner. His were off and needed adjustment. Their the shim-type so that's a pain.
3) Not really something which has to be be done while the engine is on the bench but also check the Stator. The one on my friends WR failed at ~10K miles ad it's replacement was covered under a recall from Yamaha.
4) Grow tiny hands. My friends WR for me was really hard to work-on with the engine in the frame. Especially anything which requires removing the valve cover and associated gasket. I do think there is a way to unbolt and swing the lower part of the frame and swing the engine out of the way of the top-portion of the frame, however doing so would require (at minimum) removing the skidplate and the intake so my friend and I just settled for working in the very tight confines of the frame.

In my friends case his WR had become unreliable. Most of our riding is long-distance, very remote riding out in the desert or mountains and due to a failed Stator, then issues with the cam chain tensioner it basically left him stranded, twice while we were on multi-day rides in Utah and Arizona plus I think his riding skill surpassed the bike's ability so he just bought a new Honda 450.

Good luck with your new project! If you need any other details let me know. Between my friend and I we've been all the way through his WR a couple of times.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #13
One of my close riding friends just recently decided to sell his '11 WR250 he's had since new (and 14K) miles. I would recommend doing the following things before you put the engine in the frame:
1) Replace the cam tensioner. Or better yet install an aftermarket manually-adjustable one.
2) Check the valve clearances. I think Yamaha says not to worry about checking them until over 20K miles since their shim type. We checked the one's on my friends WR at 13K while we had the valve cover off changing the cam chain tensioner. His were off and needed adjustment. Their the shim-type so that's a pain.
3) Not really something which has to be be done while the engine is on the bench but also check the Stator. The one on my friends WR failed at ~10K miles ad it's replacement was covered under a recall from Yamaha.
4) Grow tiny hands. My friends WR for me was really hard to work-on with the engine in the frame. Especially anything which requires removing the valve cover and associated gasket. I do think there is a way to unbolt and swing the lower part of the frame and swing the engine out of the way of the top-portion of the frame, however doing so would require (at minimum) removing the skidplate and the intake so my friend and I just settled for working in the very tight confines of the frame.

In my friends case his WR had become unreliable. Most of our riding is long-distance, very remote riding out in the desert or mountains and due to a failed Stator, then issues with the cam chain tensioner it basically left him stranded, twice while we were on multi-day rides in Utah and Arizona plus I think his riding skill surpassed the bike's ability so he just bought a new Honda 450.

Good luck with your new project! If you need any other details let me know. Between my friend and I we've been all the way through his WR a couple of times.

Kevin
Thanks Kevin! Motor is already in frame and should be in decent shape. Under 6k miles. That’s good about the valves!

I’m gonna focus on cleaning up the carb, frame rust and slowly assembling what I can while the new parts come in.

Because of it’s height I’m feeling like it will be a flip project but we’ll see how it rides haha!

Pics below ??
 

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Discussion Starter #15
First days progress!

Pic below...

I cleaned (not deep this isn’t a full restore just trying to get it together and running) the wheels, frame and motor, swingarm, and subframe. And now have the swingarm, rear shock, subframe, and footpegs all hand tight. Realized I really need a full set of metric sockets so planning to pick that up this weekend.

I also mocked up the tank, seat, and muffler for fun.

Some cool finds..... it has a kicker as well as battery start!

It has a bunch of aftermarket stuff, protaper bars and bar clamp, bark busters (which I may transfer to the TW) sweet muffler, and a YZ250 rear shock! Who knows what may have been done to the carb and motor?

It was previously sold for $1800 so this could be a fun project and lucratively flip if I don’t hang on to it long term.

And one slight bummer, the throttle cable either was clipped off or broke off in packing. Anyway it’s another part to order. But ya know, a new throttle cable is a blessing if this thing makes it to some of the trails that Start 2 hours from my house and then go through the depths of the forests and ridges of Kokee. Don’t wanna be fiddling with the throttle on the carb to get all the way home haha!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Here’s the latest we made great headway in two weeks and are now terrorizing the neighborhood with the (reduced volume out put) MyAss muffler on the WR

Took A lot of work and searching by schematic and part number which bolt went where. But it’s together it runs (pretty well) and is honestly a beast of a machine!

Check the youtube clip for more information

Will be looking sharp with new body kit in about a week and road legal shortly thereafter.

https://youtu.be/oG2w6gr6_Jg
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So you guys are due for an update. I’d consider the project an overall success and we’re coming down to the finish line. Just need to figure out some fine tuning on the carb. It doesn’t like to run slow. I.e. close to 1/8 - 1/4 it’s struggling. It idles well and rips like a wild cat anywhere past that. Just doesn’t like to cruise slow and especially in 1st, 2nd, 3rd just feels like the throttle is on or off and no slow speed fine adjustments. I made some videos to hopefully show the symptoms.

It’s better if I shift up 3rd,4th,5th but then I gotta down shift usually so it doesn’t bog

Really wanna get it dialed so I don’t piss of the neighborhood any more every time I adjust the carb lol!

The needle was at 5 and fuel screw at 2.5 in the video. I tried 6 and 1.5 but that didn’t fix it.

I don’t think it’s a carb cleanliness issue. I cleaned it three times and put all new jets in it and rubber etc.

I’d love to get it figured out this week since I get the plate outta storage on Wednesday!

The previous owner sent me the brand new Acerbis plastics he had already bought free of charge so she’s looking pretty sharp. Just plan to clean it up more once it runs perfect (or as close to it as can get) and possibly dye the tank, fork guards, and headlight shroud with black rit die since they’re looking kinda faded next to the new body kit.

Stoked she’s running and appreciate the help and motivation from you guys. I’ve posted the troubleshoot on thumpertalk forum too ;)


 

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My friend bought the same bike last year but in very good original condition.
It ran like crap on the bottom and that’s basically how they are stock. You just can’t run stock jetting in them because they were so choked for epa compliance.

There’s actually a WR forum that lists the jetting and needle you need. It made a world of difference and the bike is normal now.


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