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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have a fact base response on who make Western Power Sports ( WPS) motorcycle batteries. A motorcycle parts vendor tried to convince me they are a house brand of Yuasa......can't find any data as to what country their even made in. At times , the search mode is not my friend. TIA
 

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My Yuasa is made in the USA. I think they have 2-3 plants here.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for all responses. Yuasa has USA plants and in Taiwan / Japan. I'll use links etc too research more. There is a major quality / longevity difference in batteries.....not from China. Thanks again.
 

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This Yuasa NOT made in China by 8 year olds.
Replaced with exact same for that type of service.
9 years before I retired it. Still use it as a shop battery:

IMG_3856.JPG


Why I replaced the stock "wet" TW battery with an AGM Yuasa YTZ75. Also not made in China. Made in Japan by I'm sure adults (I hope :))
 

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YTZ7S.......correct?.
Yes these lithium’s are smaller what you need to match is positive post location and orientation. Check to see if the amphr are the same. If the size fit you can go bigger amps..

9ACDAFE0-533B-4D8E-AB76-57DF280C4025.png
 

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This one is made in Japan as opposed to the other Made In The USA.
"Global"!


IMG_5056.JPG


IMG_5057.JPG
 

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If you order a 12VDC, then that's what you get (from anywhere in the world) - Lithium, Gel, or acid - should show around 12.6VDC when charged and healthy

However, it is possible to get a "dud", so checking it before installing is a good idea ....
 

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If you order a 12VDC, then that's what you get (from anywhere in the world) - Lithium, Gel, or acid - should show around 12.6VDC when charged and healthy

However, it is possible to get a "dud", so checking it before installing is a good idea ....
Actually a lifepo4 cell is @3.6 volts x 4. = 14.2- 14.4volts for a full battery. Another reason that they start the bikes easier.
 

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I am just curious. All I know about batteries is....replace it when it dies. Why did you show the voltage? Are batteries from other countries different voltages?
No. That voltage meter just happened to be in the picture the day I took the battery out of the box to test it. When you buy new you don't really know how long it was on a ship or shelf. They do charge them at the factory. This one came pretty charged but 12.6 is not optimal. Yuasa (and others) recommend a full charging prior to installation. I put it on a Battery Tender overnight and I think it ended up being 13.4 or 13.6 or 13.9... something like that? And that's where it still ends up now almost 3 years later

That's a good start to long-term battery life. My feeling is that nowadays if you are only getting 3-4 years out of an MC battery then you are using an inferior product or you have some other inherent vampiring of your charging system somewhere along the line. 3-4 years is the '80's & '90's.

I have a stock "wet" battery in my 1991 xr. It's so tiny, about the size of your wallet but thicker of course. I've been advised NOT to count on charging anything more than a simple cell phone and not a GPS. So I'll probably research my first Lithium for this old girl. The batter cavity is spatially challenged. And of course they really didn't have all these 12V doo-dads on dirt or dual sports back in the day.
 

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(Maybe Lithium is a little different - ya got me on that one) .......
He did get you on that one, but he was off on the math. Nominal/average voltages for the various common battery chemistry types are:

Lead acid/SLA/AGM = 2V (modern car/motorcycle batteries have 6 of these cells in series, for a 12V nominal rating)
NiMH/NiCd = 1.2V
Lithium Ion/LiIo = 3.6V
Lithium Polymer/LiPo = 3.7V
Lithium Iron Phosphate/LiFePO4 = 3.2V (4 in series gives 12.8V nominal)
Lithium Maganese Oxide/LiMnPO4 = 3.7V
Lithium Cobalt Oxide/LiCoO2 = 3.7V

There are several more variants, but these are the ones you'll likely find out in the wild, with flooded lead acid/SLA/AGM being the most common automotive/motorsport, and LiFePO4 being the most common replacement due to their abuse-tolerant characteristics, which is also why you find them in power tool batteries. The nominal voltages listed above are the average/middle-ground voltage, with the actual useful voltage range varying above and below that mark.


Edit: Chart for reference:
https://www.batteryspace.com/LiFePO4/LiFeMnPO4-Batteries.aspx
 

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Thanks Nihil.
 
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