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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone!



The intake manifold rubber (The part between the head and the carb) has finally ripped beyond repair. Instead of fishing $70 out of my wallet at the dealership, I figure I would ask the kind souls here instead to see if anyone had one that they could part with.



Please PM me or email me at [email protected] if you can help, thank you!
 

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If you can't find a good used one, you can get a new one for 45 dollars from Powersports Plus to save money over your dealership price.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the recommendation!



I've found that southercyclesupply has the cheapest prices with free shipping over $50. I'll give it a few more days to see if anyone around here can help before I bite the bullet. Thanks again!
 

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Thanks for the recommendation!



I've found that southercyclesupply has the cheapest prices with free shipping over $50. I'll give it a few more days to see if anyone around here can help before I bite the bullet. Thanks again!


.



I think I might have one, let me look and see if it is good and I'll let you know.



.
 

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I was going to replace mine with some silicone hose or something... Seems like a lot of japanese bikes from the 80s and 90s have a terrible problem with these things going bad? On other bikes it looks common to replace with something that doesn't require the sale of Microsoft stock to afford
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi guys, just a quick update, I was lucky enough to find an intake manifold for a 2001+ TW200 in the $25 (shipped) range from eBay. There is definitely a difference between the 87-00 and 01+ manifolds boot where it joins the carb, but the difference is manageable by using a wider clamp (Home depot generic clamp). I am also using a pod filter which gives me some flexibility in the mounting positions. I believe there is a thread floating around that compares the carb differences between the generations, but it also shows the manifold differences. The main difference is that the 01+ manifold has a vacuum port for the evap/emissions related pipework and the groove inside the manifold that holds the carb in place is slightly different.



Prior to putting on the new manifold, I was having a really hard time mending the ripped rubber. The rubber portion of the manifold was simply too short to clamp or glue on any support for a silicon or replacement rubber hose. Furthermore, it is inherently difficult to glue rubber... I had a hard time finding a glue that was strong enough to hold the rubber manifold together yet flexible enough to not tear again once the band clamp was tightened. I tried all types of glues with rubber fillers without much luck. I was only able to get about 5 miles into a ride before the repair (bandaid) would rip.



Randucci, thank you for offering to help! I've had the new manifold on for about 10 miles so far and despite the mismatch, it is holding well. I'll check back in a few weeks to let you guys know how it is holding up in the long run. Thanks again!
 

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Minor point, but the vacuum port isn't for emissions. It's for a gizmo that the factory calls a "silencer". In theory it's a little tube which stores vacuum between engine pulses helping with fuel delivery and cutting down intake noise a bit.



I only mention it because I've had really bad luck keeping vacuum caps alive for very long so close to the cylinder head. If you cap it off with a length of tubing sealed at one end rather than a vacuum cap it seems to live longer. If the tubing is long enough it may even serve some of its original purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the tip lizrdbrth, whats funny is that the bike was not idling well after I performed the valve adjustment, turns out the vacuum cap I had on there had ripped off. I ended up with a short piece of a capped off fuel hose which should serve the original intentions of the port well
 
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