[Johnywad]

I need a CDI for an 87' TW200. Please shoot me an E-mail or PM if you have one.



Thanks.

 

[sorethumb]

Did you also post about this on ADVRider? If so, I am sorry to hear you got burned on the CDI issue.



You probably know by now that the 1987 model's electronics are specific only to that bike and that finding working replacement electronic parts is nearly impossible.



I would direct you to this great thread that might provide a solution to your CDI problem. http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/3077-conversion-to-ttr125-ignition/



Keep in mind I have not ever worked on an early T-dub like yours so YMMV.



There are some smart and very knowledgable people here that should be able to help you.



Good luck.

 

[sorethumb]

And this thread too: http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/2622-tw200-cdi/

 

[Johnywad]

Yup. I posted there as well. Bought the bike from a guy in NH who said the kill switch had a loose connection/short. He had two TW's and seemed like a solid guy. Oh well. I should have known better.



Thanks for the links. I was looking at them earlier but I'm not sure I'm confident enough to tackle splicing stuff together. I'll happily pull the carbs off a VFR to clean them, check and adjust valves or anything mechanical but wiring scares me. The most complicated thing I've tackled wiring-wise was putting a Power Commander on my Guzzi.



I'm hoping someone has a 87' CDI laying around and needs some $ for Christmas.

 

[operose]

Yup. I posted there as well. Bought the bike from a guy in NH who said the kill switch had a loose connection/short. He had two TW's and seemed like a solid guy. Oh well. I should have known better.



Thanks for the links. I was looking at them earlier but I'm not sure I'm confident enough to tackle splicing stuff together. I'll happily pull the carbs off a VFR to clean them, check and adjust valves or anything mechanical but wiring scares me. The most complicated thing I've tackled wiring-wise was putting a Power Commander on my Guzzi.



I'm hoping someone has a 87' CDI laying around and needs some $ for Christmas.

Let me know if I am understanding this correctly... You bought an '87 that supposedly had a kill switch short but it had a burnt out CDI? Please don't take this the wrong way but can you confirm what tests were performed to verify bad CDI?



Might have something you would be interested in.

 

[rm_hm]

Bike Boneyard has a used one and some other 87 stuff. But again it's used

Maybe he's open to offers?

http://www.bikeboney...a%20tw-200.html



87 yamaha tw-200 parting





head--$150

cylinder with piston--$100

crank--$100

trans--$100

stator--$60

clutch--$75

clutch cover--$50

intake manifold--$25

carb--$50

kick shaft--$50

kick lever--$35

shift shaft--$35

shifter--$15

frame--$50

swingarm--$50

shock--$50

front fender--$25

rear fender--$35

forks with triples--$100

brake pedal--$25

airbox--$50

cdi box--$60

coil--$35

clutch cable--$15

pipe--$25

 

[Johnywad]

Let me know if I am understanding this correctly... You bought an '87 that supposedly had a kill switch short but it had a burnt out CDI? Please don't take this the wrong way but can you confirm what tests were performed to verify bad CDI?



Might have something you would be interested in.

It has an intermittant problem. It will run fine for miles and miles. The next time I fire it up, it will idle but not take throttle without sputtering, backfiring or stalling. It's almost like the timing won't advance. I have checked every connection in the wiring harness. The wiring is all in good condition and hasn't been hacked. The battery is charged. I put a new coil and plug in and gapped it to spec. I made sure the battery terminals weren't arcing on the frame since they seem kind of close. The valves are set correctly, it has a new petcock on the tank which is spotless inside. The carb is cleaned and the bike runs absolutely perfect.... sometimes.



If you have a suggestion I'm happy to try it out. I thought I'd covered the basics in order to rule out all the less expensive stuff.



I'd like to get a known good CDI. Then I'd put mine in the oven at 250F for a half hour or so and see if that fixes my current CDI. It's a trick old Volvo owners sometimes use on CDI's. Solder flows from 185 to 215 or so and tiny cracks in solder can sometimes be repaired with a bake in the kitchen stove.

 

[Johnywad]

Bike Boneyard has a used one and some other 87 stuff. But again it's used

http://www.bikeboneyard.com/87%20yamaha%20tw-200.html



87 yamaha tw-200 parting





head--$150

cylinder with piston--$100

crank--$100

trans--$100

stator--$60

clutch--$75

clutch cover--$50

intake manifold--$25

carb--$50

kick shaft--$50

kick lever--$35

shift shaft--$35

shifter--$15

frame--$50

swingarm--$50

shock--$50

front fender--$25

rear fender--$35

forks with triples--$100

brake pedal--$25

airbox--$50

cdi box--$60

coil--$35

clutch cable--$15

pipe--$25

Thank you. I sent them an e-mail this evening after seeing this post.

 

[operose]

It has an intermittant problem. It will run fine for miles and miles. The next time I fire it up, it will idle but not take throttle without sputtering, backfiring or stalling. It's almost like the timing won't advance. I have checked every connection in the wiring harness. The wiring is all in good condition and hasn't been hacked. The battery is charged. I put a new coil and plug in and gapped it to spec. I made sure the battery terminals weren't arcing on the frame since they seem kind of close. The valves are set correctly, it has a new petcock on the tank which is spotless inside. The carb is cleaned and the bike runs absolutely perfect.... sometimes.



If you have a suggestion I'm happy to try it out. I thought I'd covered the basics in order to rule out all the less expensive stuff.



I'd like to get a known good CDI. Then I'd put mine in the oven at 250F for a half hour or so and see if that fixes my current CDI. It's a trick old Volvo owners sometimes use on CDI's. Solder flows from 185 to 215 or so and tiny cracks in solder can sometimes be repaired with a bake in the kitchen stove.

I know the running conditions that you describe, all too well. Experienced the exact same problem, myself. I also tried heating mine up (industrial strength heat gun) but it only made it better for a half hour or so.



Not sure what is wrong with the damn timing advance circuits in these things but hope to find out soon. A member here hooked me up big with an oscilloscope and some other test equipment so I would like to hopefully find the time to dig back into my fried one and any others that i can get my hands on this winter while holed up from the weather.



another member here also helped me out big big big time, by hooking me up with a "conversion" to late model electrics. I think it is from the 98-01 models. This includes engine side cover, stator, pulser coil, coil, cdi, harness, switches and probably some other junk. As far as I know it is everything you need to make your 87 a 98.



I have been holding onto it in order to "pay it forward" much the way bangkok did for me. Hearing that you got duped by a dishonest or misinformed seller is close enough to a hard luck story to make me want to help you out. Let me know if you can't find an '87 CDI unit and we can talk some more. You can have it for what I have in it to ship from thailand ($130 I think, can check on that) plus whatever it costs to ship to you, if you want it. Perhaps if we did this you could send me your burnt out CDI as well, for further deconstruction and diagnostics

Good luck and happy riding

 

[Johnywad]

I know the running conditions that you describe, all too well. Experienced the exact same problem, myself. I also tried heating mine up (industrial strength heat gun) but it only made it better for a half hour or so.



Not sure what is wrong with the damn timing advance circuits in these things but hope to find out soon. A member here hooked me up big with an oscilloscope and some other test equipment so I would like to hopefully find the time to dig back into my fried one and any others that i can get my hands on this winter while holed up from the weather.



another member here also helped me out big big big time, by hooking me up with a "conversion" to late model electrics. I think it is from the 98-01 models. This includes engine side cover, stator, pulser coil, coil, cdi, harness, switches and probably some other junk. As far as I know it is everything you need to make your 87 a 98.



I have been holding onto it in order to "pay it forward" much the way bangkok did for me. Hearing that you got duped by a dishonest or misinformed seller is close enough to a hard luck story to make me want to help you out. Let me know if you can't find an '87 CDI unit and we can talk some more. You can have it for what I have in it to ship from thailand ($130 I think, can check on that) plus whatever it costs to ship to you, if you want it. Perhaps if we did this you could send me your burnt out CDI as well, for further deconstruction and diagnostics

Good luck and happy riding

Thanks for the offer! I actually broke down and ordered a new CDI for 250 bucks from Babbits. I don't think a heat gun can give a full heat soak the solder needs to flow. At this point, it's just a theory but I think tiny cracks in the solder would just get glazed over by a heat gun which is why it only works for a very short time afterwards. Baking it in the oven at 250 for an hour and then letting it sit there for another hour while it cools is a different story. That is the case with old Volvo CDI's anyway.



BTW, I've thought about it quite a bit and I don't think the seller intentionally misled me. It doesn't matter one way or the other at this point but I prefer to believe he really thought it was the kill switch. In the grand scheme of things, it's not that big a deal.