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Yamaha TW200 Quick Release Seat Bolts (Set of 2)

17K views 60 replies 20 participants last post by  Smoke 
#1 · (Edited)
Awhile back I had floated out some of the preliminary photos of the prototype version of some of the "quick release" seat bolts I had come up with. Anyhow....recently finished up a batch of them, and figured I'd float these out to the TW200 Forum folks for 'first dibs' so to speak. Also, in addition to some introductory pricing that we are currently running on them I am also offering free shipping within the United States to members of the TW200 Forum on these as well. Ordering options are currently via website (link below), and at checkout if you use the coupon/discount code "TW200FORUM" the free shipping will be applied through the end of the calendar year (you will just need to select the Country as "United States" in the dropdown before applying the coupon code FYI). I can also do a custom PayPal direct-purchase link if folks would rather do that as well just let me know.

These are a one-piece solid design, cut on a CNC Lathe from 304 annealed stainless steel so they will not rust or corrode. The seat bolts also feature a knurled end for ease of threading the bolts in-or-out by hand, and also have a 6-point wrench knockout that fits a standard 10mm wrench to tighten/loosen - but made the knockout area large enough to accept an adjustable wrench, or pliers in a pinch for tightening or loosening the seat bolts. The factory recessed bolts are difficult to access, and also make any "field repairs" to the battery or getting under the seat very difficult....our design allows better/easier/quicker access with a variety of tool options.

I'm attaching a few photos of the units here below, and more available on the link as follows (as well as options for purchasing/etc):

If folks have any questions at all just let me know!

Tool accessory Tool
Tool accessory Cylinder Tool Metal
Screw Auto part Cylinder Tool accessory Fastener



Tool accessory Tool Steel Pipe
Cutting tool Tool Metalworking hand tool Tool accessory
Auto part Tire Tool Pipe


Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Motorcycle Motor vehicle
Auto part Automotive tire Vehicle Tire Automotive wheel system


Pipe Auto part Rim Wheel Metal
Automotive tire Tire Vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part
 
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#2 ·
Well done on the pictures bro.
 
#7 ·
Yep, agree 100%....that's why I had to come up with a bit more of a practical solution - I've been carrying tools on the TW, but not a ratchet with a 10mm deep socket (and didn't want to add one more thing into my already packed tool kit). Being "on the road" or "in the wild" access is now MUCH easier, but even just tinkering in the garage it's nice to just grab a 10mm or adjustable wrench and have the seat off in seconds.

Thanks for your order, ships out today....should be in your hands soon!
 
#10 ·
Put em' on today, & it's a great way to r&r these damn seat bolts! Stainless is heavy, but I can live with it! Was thinking of drilling a few holes just cuz. Thanks for the new system nathanwind!
And I thought I was the only one concerned about weight of the T-Dub!
I've caught some grief about that, but I've lightened my bike by 25 lbs. with a little more to go.
On a small, light bike like the T-Dub you can really feel a 25 lb. difference in handling & balance. And when dragging it out of the mud!
No, I'm not trying to "build a racer", but the principles & rewards are the same...

This is an "elegant" and bulletproof system for sure (and I'm just queer for stainless steel!), but I guess I'll stick with my lighter & cheaper alternate approach. There are a number of other options here on the Forum.
And I will be adding the tethers, I'm a belt & suspenders guy!
 
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#9 ·
Here’s the direction I went. No tools required. Just a 1/4” bolt with the head cut off and drilled to accept a pin. The pin has a short piece of high tension line attached to the seat strap bolt location to keep from possible loss. It also allows you to pull the pin and just drop it without fear of losing it. Heavy 100 lb braided fishing line would do the trick. The attached line also make for a finger hold when you want to pull the pin. The seat does not rattle or move at all. And it’s cheap!
202654
 
#13 ·
"If it breaks, make it stronger.
If it doesn't break, make it lighter."
- Ed Mabry (my Land Speed Racing mentor & friend)

What have you done to lighten your T-Dubb?
Why did you do it?
 
#17 · (Edited)
Took of lots of stuff that's heavy, like pass.pegs & mounts. Added Flo footpegs to Procycle mounts, Shorai Battery, changed out blinkers with small & light, aluminum bars, aluminum sprocket w/Ti hardware, replaced fork bellows w/seal savers, Ti bolts, washers, nuts on clamps, rotor, caliper mount, everything on front end, including switches, cable guides, here & there on the bike including all exhaust bolts/nuts. On swingarm where possible. Sprocket guard, chain guard, I still have some more to add. Removed helmet lock & that's where I put the hour meter. Just been dickin' with this thing since I got it. Suspension has been totally gone thru by Racetech. Springs F&R, emulators, different seal head on the shock, etc.. Now the bike has damping, & rides higher in the stroke. I've done all kinds of stuff to it, & it's better every ride. I'm havin' fun. It's jetted great, and I'm sure I'll remember more mods as soon as I make this post.
 
#15 ·
Hey, Smart Ass...guess what?
I've lost 26 Lbs. since I put the bike on a diet. :giggle:
 
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#18 · (Edited)
Cool, PJ...
Where are you getting your Ti bits?
Somebody gave me a Ti conversion kit for my Triumph 1050 Speed Triple. There were
some left but none that will work on the T-Dubby, dammit.
Looks like we're doing many of the same things. My two big weight savers were the FMF can and the Lithium Ion battery. A bit over 10 lbs. for the two.
Many of the other things you've done, always lookin' for more!
Isn't that RaceTech suspension great?
 
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#19 · (Edited)
Cool, PJ...
Where are you getting your Ti bits?
Somebody gave me a Ti conversion kit for my Triumph 1050 Speed Triple. There were
some left but none that will work on the T-Dubby, dammit.
Looks like we're doing many of the same things. My two big weight savers were the FMF can and the Lithium Ion battery. A bit over 10 lbs. for the two.
Many of the other things you've done, always lookin' for more!
Isn't that RaceTech suspension great?
What I don't have laying around, I buy from Probolt USA. Quick shipping, & great to work with. Thought about a different can, but I'm into quiet, so, maybe later. I'm still working on gettin' this lil girl lighter, but now it'll be more nip/tuck as the main heavy stuff was ez to eliminate.The whole oil cooler I put on is lighter than the Komifornia canister, & it was installed using Ti also.Yesterday I installed a new front tire, and heavy tube, so that kinda backtracked on me as far as weight. Went with a Kenda Equilibrium that specs say is 13 lbs., but I have it at 17.2 lbs. So that kinda hurt my goal!
Yes, the suspension is about as good as it's gunna get IMO. I don't pound this thing. I have other bikes for that. But it does make for longer, more comfortable rides, as does my seat I had modded by Fisher Seats. That thing came out extra fine!! So basically, my lil tote-goat is almost where I want it to be. I have been staring at this thing trying to figure out a plan for air scoops at the cylinder. How to form/mount. While I was staring, I removed all the anti-fin rattle rubber pucks. That in itself should help with cooling some. Working...
 
#20 ·
Heavy tires...total unsprung weight. Too bad.
Probolt is who gifted me with Ti fasteners for my Speed Triple.
Do you know the total weight savings from your project?

Geeze...I thought I was anal about my bikes!
 
#23 ·
Heavy tires...total unsprung weight. Too bad.
Probolt is who gifted me with Ti fasteners for my Speed Triple.
Do you know the total weight savings from your project?

Geeze...I thought I was anal about my bike
Heavy tires...total unsprung weight. Too bad.
Probolt is who gifted me with Ti fasteners for my Speed Triple.
Do you know the total weight savings from your project?

Geeze...I thought I was anal about my bikes!
Yes, I'm a pro in Analosity!
I was taking notes, then went off on several different tangents, and stopped the chart.
Anyway, I weighed the bike when new at 270 lbs, so I'll weight it again when done
 
#22 ·
I would strongly recommend using a wrench to tighten those $40 bolts being vended for anyone considering venturing off pavement. I fear from experience that such mild knurling likely prevents adequate hand tightening to secure those gems from loosening under vibration over time.
I say this because not to condemn a product but as a cautionary tale to save Members from inadvertently loosing a fairly expensive pair of bolts. I've lost wingnut style quick release bolts that were secured by hand with what I imagine is significantly greater torque than what seems achievable with the depicted knurling on a fairly small diameter bolt shank.
 
#24 ·
I would strongly recommend using a wrench to tighten those $40 bolts being vended for anyone considering venturing off pavement. I fear from experience that such mild knurling likely prevents adequate hand tightening to secure those gems from loosening under vibration over time.
I say this because not to condemn a product but as a cautionary tale to save Members from inadvertently loosing a fairly expensive pair of bolts. I've lost wingnut style quick release bolts that were secured by hand with what I imagine is significantly greater torque than what seems achievable with the depicted knurling on a fairly small diameter bolt shank.
Yes, that’s what the hex is for.
 
#25 ·
Stock bolts had a hex head that can even can accept a 10mm socket. Of course need to use a wrench sort of negates any claimed quick release feature.
 
#26 ·
This is so simple I don't understand what the problem is that you evidently have with them. Knurled part let's you screw them in about one full turn from full snug. Then a open end wrench let's you quickly finish tightening. The overall length is what makes it much easier to install without fishing around for the bolthead that's hidden from view. I like what the bolts offer. You probably shouldn't buy any.
 
#27 ·
I'm just speaking from the voice of experience that there is a minimum amount of torque required to secure and retain any of the seat bolt systems that have been experimented with over the years. This is something I have learned over many thousands of off road miles on my TW200s gleaned over more than 16 years riding these little bikes in often challenging terrain. It is not like I am trying to promote my favorite alternative pioneered many years ago, just offering comments of the very real risk of loss over time.
PILOT JET, as a fairly new member of 4 months your comments and opinions are appreciated, just please try to be polite in your delivery of them.
 
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#28 ·
Yes, just like any other fastener, proper torque is essential. Pardon me if you thought I was impolite.
I carry extra bolt, nuts, etc. when on the trail, and I'd use em' if necessary, or give them to you or anyone else if needed. That's me. Being most polite...
 
#29 ·
Well hopefully just to prove me wrong you and others who decide to get these bolts will reef on them tightly enough so as to not to loose them in the future and thus possibly be dissatisfied. That was my goal.
Suppose I could have been more tactful like TW-Brian and others whose comments alluding to a retention leash were previously mentioned, sorry about that . Nothing wrong with your wishing to defend your purchase.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Well hopefully just to prove me wrong you and others who decide to get these bolts will reef on them tightly enough so as to not to loose them in the future and thus possibly be dissatisfied. That was my goal.
Suppose I could have been more tactful like TW-Brian and others whose comments alluding to a retention leash were previously mentioned, sorry about that . Nothing wrong with your wishing to defend your purchase.
I’ll be brief as I’m heading out the door And will try to circle back later....but have been running the prototype set simply hand threading in, then giving 1/4 turn with a 10mm wrench to snug them up (and that’s what I’ve been suggesting to folks). Something like several months and ~500 miles on- and off-road, haven’t loosened up a tad. No retention leash required (in my opinion), but certainly no reason someone couldn’t add one if they really wanted to.

While I may not have logged as many TW miles as you, have hundreds of thousands of miles under my belt in Rovers and developing products for them. And many, many miles of those off-road.....so not my first time at the rodeo either :).
 
#32 · (Edited)
But if one uses a wrench or any other tool it defeats the traditionally accepted definition here of "Quick Release" we have used here for untold years for the various alternative seat retention systems.
I guess that is the core of my beef with the blanket endorsement. If you need a wrench, not your fingers, or even a socket like the stock bolts, then it seems hardly quick release. REMEMBER THE POST TITLE IS FOR SOMETHING LABELED "QUICK RELEASE". To me that implies being able to rely on finger use of what appears to my eye to be somewhat mild knurling.
This product, as well as the system I have been using for a decade is perhaps more accurately described as "Convenient Release". I did experiment with a pair of "Quick Release" no tool required systems many years ago but after loosing them returned to the $0.65 "Convenient Release" improvement over stock bolts.
Those quick release styles I used had wing nuts which afforded both greater purchase and leverage for fingers to apply torque but took upwards of a dollar each in parts.:cool:

Hopefully you folks will have better luck with finger tightening these replacements. Perhaps you ride differently and will not subject the fasteners to my ride stresses . I ride primarily off-road in un-smooth terrain. I typically stand up then sit down numerous times a mile so over several thousand miles the total load cycles of compression and rebound really add up between times I need to remove the seat. Things tend to get loose with that sort of service life.
 
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#33 ·
But if one uses a wrench or any other tool it defeats the traditionally accepted definition here of "Quick Release" we have used here for untold years for the various alternative seat retention systems. I guess that is the core of my beef with the blanket endorsement. If you need a wrench, not your fingers, or even a socket like the stock bolts, then it seems hardly quick release.
This product, as well as the system I have been using for a decade is perhaps more accurately described as "Convenient Release". I did experiment with a pair of "Quick Release" no tool required systems many years ago but after loosing them returned to the $0.65 "Convenient Release" improvement over stock bolts.
Those quick release styles had wing nuts affording both greater purchase and leverage for fingers to apply torque but took upwards of a dollar each in parts.:cool:
I suppose we could argue about the semantics of 'quick release', but to me using an extended socket on a ratchet - or even carrying one on the bike - is not a viable or quick option. My bike tool kit is already busting at the seams, adding in a ratchet with a long 10mm socket wasn’t really in the cards - as I'm sure it is with most folks. Slapping a 10mm wrench, adjustable wrench, or even pliers on there (all in my toolkit, or readily available laying around the shop at any given moment) is much easier/quicker.

Again I'm not arguing that there are certainly some 'homemade' options that can be done - I just prefer a clean, professional, simple, and sturdy way personally. Most other options I've seen also don't necessarily "snug" the seat up against the mounting brackets (i.e. if just an extended wingnut was used), or have multiple "parts" cobbled together (to me, the more moving bits & pieces the more likely a chance of failure...i.e. an assembly of bolts, washers, nuts, sleeves, spacers, etc). I wanted a reliable, solid, one-piece design....the engineer in me likes a streamlined solution, I don't do half-assed or cobbled - hence these bolts.

Personally with the later bikes all being electric start only (including mine which is a 2016, no kickstart unless added manually) the battery is the nerve center on these bikes. I’ve grown up running the Class IV roads in Vermont, albeit mostly in old Land Rovers but the same rules apply – any issues in the field need to be solved in the field, and could make the difference between walking out and driving/riding out (and that pales in comparison to those folks out in the west in Colorado, Utah, and similar that end up in really remote areas). But a loose battery terminal, no-start/dead-battery issue, or similar could be a problem….for me, I’d rather quickly resolve it and move out under my own power. I also keep some accessory fuses tucked up off the battery under this seat area that may require access, as well as some extra fuel hose, my registration, etc.
 
#34 ·
Blah blah blah... looks well machined and for my purposes is quite timely and convenient. I just lost one of my seat bolts somewhere between my bike and my garage floor - never to be seen again. Heck even dropped the skid plate looking for it. Just ordered a set. Will enjoy avoiding having to bring along a 10mm socket and ratchet everywhere I go. Of course, I do have a kickstarter on my '93. Meh, these things will look good on there and probably even make smile when I use them. Won't say how much I spent for knurled nuts for my drill press vise. Such is the price of entry and all that.
 
#35 ·
i have been trying to bite my tongue but can't. i do not mind spending a few bucks on my bike, but i have to draw the line when it comes to $20 ( a lot more in CAD ) for 1 bolt which still needs a tool to use. good luck with this, but i don't see how it is too much better than the stock bolts
 
#36 ·
So Leftlane, hope you and others are not expecting to be able to use the 10mm socket and ratchet you mentioned on those $40 "Quick Relese" bolts since there is no 10mm hex head one can put a socket over.
 
#38 · (Edited)
Also, I'll add in....hopefully no one thinks they are "obligated" or "required" to purchase a set of these??? A couple folks seem to be a bit riled up, for whatever reason. I don't expect anyone to fund my projects up front, anything I do is out of love of the vehicles I interact with - if folks like it, fine. If not, no one is out any time or funds except for me.

If you think I'm paying the bills on selling some seat bolts - I assure you that is not the case. Between special milling tooling, stainless material costs, knurling tool, etc would probably be lucky to even cover costs on this. But....financials are not the driving factor, I assure you. And the aforementioned is before you talk about the CAD design time, CNC lathe time, additional steps for CNC milling to do the wrench knockout, separate knurling process, finish polishing, etc. And that's before you introduce other overhead costs such as 3-phase power, etc.

Possibly if future quantity runs are done, maybe there will be a few bucks in it....but again, that's not the driving factor. I tend to get attached to my vehicles/bikes/hobbies, and like to do what I can to improve them (in my opinion)...and I love my TW. But if innovation and new product development gets people all upset for whatever reason, then moderators please feel free to delete this thread if need be - certainly was not my intention.

Of the 20 sets sold to folks so far, I've received nothing but positive feedback....the individuals that have purchased seem to be very happy with them. Personally I've used them for about 12-months, and am happy with the fit, finish, and functionality. But if the folks that have not used them, interacted with them, etc seem to be upset I honestly don't know how to reconcile that. But, I guess it's the internet so if it makes people feel better being able to cast their dispersions to the masses so be it.
 
#39 ·
Attaches securely and removes easily without any tools. The seat does not wiggle or move. Extremely unlikely any parts would be lost. Very simple design. And the best part is all the parts come to less than $2.00.
Everyone is free to have their own opinions. I’m sure there are several other methods to hold a seat on that are even better. If you want to spend $40 for two bolts that still require a tool to remove the seat, more power to you. I’m spending the $38.00 I saved on gas and beer.

202790
 
#43 ·
Are they long enough to gouge the tires on sharp bumps or hard, flat landings?
And bend or strip the bolts or threads?
Not saying they would...just askin'.
They sure are purdy! :unsure:
 
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