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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, I know the carb thing has been beat to death, but I am really stumped.

I have what is basically a brand new TW that I bought from the dealer in 2015 (it's a 2015 model). Had a hoot doing a bunch of mods like bars, kick start, new tires, etc. Rode it for about 50 miles and then life got in the way. Shoulder surgery, knee surgery...blah, blah, blah.

Anyway, I busted it out after about a year of sitting in my garage. Drained the old fuel and replaced with new 91 and a few squirts of Liquid Mechanic, also has an inline filter. Jump started it and it took forever to warm up, about 20 minutes. The warm up on this thing has always been a pain. Then took it for a mellow spin where it sputtered and pinged and ran like crap and would not idle.

Obviously, I figured the carb was gummed up, even though I always run the fuel out before storage. Tore the carb out and pulled it apart, but it was spotless inside. I cleaned it anyway and re-installed. Then it ran well for 15 minutes and died. Won't start now.

Seriously, are these bikes THAT difficult to maintain and keep running even when stored in optimum conditions? I have a 2001 Honda XR100 that I didn't start for 3 years and stored outside. Changed fuel and it kicked over on the first whack and ran like new.

What is it about the TW? What am I missing?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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What is your pilot air screw set at? Have you pulled the plug on the carb blocking this screw and tried to adjust it?

You see, it is supposed to be set at about 1 turn out from lightly seated, but most of us have found the sweet spot to be around 2.5 turns out. Another reason I mention it is because someone recently had a new TW and the screw was all of the way in! So, it's something to check. Good luck to you.

p.s. It's a low compression engine that runs best on good ol' 87 octane, and that's usually what I recommend, however many stations now are offering ethanol-free super, in which case that is a good way to go. This should not matter with your above issues, I just thought I'd mention it.
 

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Maybe it is a fuel flow problem, I suggest that you take the fuel tank off and rinse it out properly, there is also a fuel filter inside the tank that gets clogged up easily, just remove the petcock from the tank and you'll be able to get to the filter.

The TW is a straightforward bike, I don't think this is a big thing that went wrong.
 

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Yeah, checking fuel flow would be good. Also, coming from storage, make sure mice didn't make a home in your airbox which is restricting air flow.
 

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Go read the entire thread by Goldenhtr, "What he found in his fuel filter".

I am not familiar with the new carbs after 2001 but in the old ones there is a needle valve and seat actuated by the float. You can remove the seat itself after removing a tiny screw holding it in place. On the other side of that seat is a very fine mesh dome type filter and I have often found it to be clogged and more so if ethanol fuel has been used. Just because the inside of the carb looks spotless does not mean there isn't some minor blockage and this is where I look for it.

GaryL
 

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I had a similar condition on my ’07 TW, where after being left over winter with a dry carb, there was some hesitance on the main jet – and that’s with 5% ethanol

A quick dose of carb cleaner in the fuel tank sorted it …….
 

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I can't emphasize the 2 and a half turns on the pilot screw thing enough. Totally transformed my bike today. There is a little cap or plug that you have to remove to get at it that caused me more hassle than anything.
 

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I can't emphasize the 2 and a half turns on the pilot screw thing enough. Totally transformed my bike today.
Same thing happened to me. I was all set to do an extensive tuning of the carb but just opening the idle mixture screw 2 1/2 turns made such a huge difference I was done.
 

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I can't emphasize the 2 and a half turns on the pilot screw thing enough. Totally transformed my bike today. There is a little cap or plug that you have to remove to get at it that caused me more hassle than anything.
I have removed so many of those plugs it became simple. The plug has a tiny hole in it from the factory. Find a tiny self tapping screw and just drive it in a few threads. The plug comes right out with needle nose pliars and a little wiggling.

GaryL
 

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Now I know why you guys have always said the air-fuel/pilot screw adjustment should be the first step of carb tuning. And you don't even have to remove the carb from the bike. Just turn petcock to off, open drain screw and drain remaining fuel, disconnect fuel tube from carb, remove throttle cables, loosen both boot clamps, and rotate the carb 90 degrees toward the right side of the bike. Quick, easy, and costs $0.00. Thanks again to all you guys who recommended this.
 
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