To all you duro power grip enthusiast I believe your right with this tire for an excellent off road tire. I have not ridden on the street with it but off road its just bites and keeps going where I know the stocker would of left me stranded or the need for speed might of compensated but its more fun being a tractor. Installing this tire is pure Hell! I got the feeling I was actually going to end up using this tire on the dock for a boat bumper. 2 tire shops and no luck...I finally did what I didnt want to do and I skimmed the bead area with a dremel like tool on my drill. Barely took any rubber off but enough that when I went back to the tire guy it popped on with a loud bang and brought dirt down from the rafters. I definatly didnt compromise the tire in any way doing this as I was very light on the removal of rubber and made sure I went slow and even. Fits the bike excellent, looks excellent..just need a bigger rear sprocket as it is a taller tire so my gearing is taller. With a 50 tooth sprocket its way to high geared now. Going down a steep hill I had to ride the brakes where as before I could of used 1st gear with no brakes. Thinking going for a 60 tooth, as I am not looking for highway speeds. Had a chance to ride it in the snow and it grips excellent. Definatly got a few looks and had one person snap a picture of it!.So just thought I would share this review, hope it helps.
Duro power grip 26x8x14
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captncrunch
61 - 80 of 98 Posts
You might be surprised at how well it handles on the road. When you first start off from a stop, it will feel kind of gravelly. Once you get rolling, that goes away and it smooths out nicely. It takes a little more effort to lean the bike over due to the squared off profile of the Duro. This can be best described as the bike wants to go straight, and you have to work a little more to get it to turn. I never bothered trying to balance the Duro, but I do have Ride-On in the tube. I ride probably 80% street and the Duro on the back and the Shinko Golden Boy on the front work fine for my needs. I like the tractor look and it will definitely draw a lot of attention to your bike.
Regarding gearing, I am currently running the stock sprocket on the front and dual sprockets on the rear, with the stock 50 plus a 47. I am still using the stock chain with it's original length. Here is the thread that details how to do that:
http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/641-the-dual-sprocket-thread/
![Image]()
Regarding gearing, I am currently running the stock sprocket on the front and dual sprockets on the rear, with the stock 50 plus a 47. I am still using the stock chain with it's original length. Here is the thread that details how to do that:
http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/641-the-dual-sprocket-thread/
It all depends on the type and range of riding that you will be doing and the type of rider that you are. Since I ride mostly street and easy fire roads, the 47/50 combo works well. It also allows use of the stock length chain for either 47 or 50 by just adjusting the rear axle. Since you've already got the stock chain/sprocket setup, put a few miles on your Duro with the stock setup first and see what you think.
Here are my thoughts regarding rear sprocket choices:
47 - works best for mostly street riding (will work with stock chain)
50 - good combo of street and dirt (stock)
55 - more difficult fire roads/trails with rutted and rocky sections (requires longer than stock chain)
60+ - gnarly single-track trails (requires longer than stock chain and removal of chain guard, I would guess)
I can't really speak for muddy/wet or sandy conditions since we don't have those where/when I ride. Maybe someone else can comment.
Here are my thoughts regarding rear sprocket choices:
47 - works best for mostly street riding (will work with stock chain)
50 - good combo of street and dirt (stock)
55 - more difficult fire roads/trails with rutted and rocky sections (requires longer than stock chain)
60+ - gnarly single-track trails (requires longer than stock chain and removal of chain guard, I would guess)
I can't really speak for muddy/wet or sandy conditions since we don't have those where/when I ride. Maybe someone else can comment.
!@#$% the fun just dont stop...
but the tire does
RUBS right side swing arm on setting 5+ 1 notch which is full back on stock chain.
anyone have a old chain they would like to donate a link and a master from? (please)
Id really like to get this rolling on the stock sprocket and try it BEFORE I have to buy a new chain.
and/or clue me how to add two links... help
AND... looks like ill need to do something with the spring mount loop.... grrrrrrr.... still not having fun yet!
![Image]()
but the tire does
RUBS right side swing arm on setting 5+ 1 notch which is full back on stock chain.
anyone have a old chain they would like to donate a link and a master from? (please)
Id really like to get this rolling on the stock sprocket and try it BEFORE I have to buy a new chain.
and/or clue me how to add two links... help
AND... looks like ill need to do something with the spring mount loop.... grrrrrrr.... still not having fun yet!
Wow, you are not catching any breaks on this mod!
Sorry I can't help you with any extra links or a master link, I am still using my original chain.
There is not a lot of side to side clearance, but there should be at least 1/4" on each side. That is less than the length of the nubs on your tire. If you are rubbing on the right side, then you should have plenty (relatively speaking) of clearance on the left side. With the back wheel raised off the ground, center the wheel/tire within the swingarm. Don't trust the markings on the snail adjusters to center the wheel, just position the wheel/tire so it is visually centered within the swingarm. Spin the tire just to make sure there is not excessive wobble that is causing the rubbing. Also check to make sure there is clearance between the chain and the tire. Then dial in the snail adjusters, making sure that the chain is not too tight, and then tighten the axle. Spin the wheel again to make sure it is still centered and the tire is not rubbing on either side of the swingarm or the chain, and you should be good to go.
Sorry I can't help you with any extra links or a master link, I am still using my original chain.
There is not a lot of side to side clearance, but there should be at least 1/4" on each side. That is less than the length of the nubs on your tire. If you are rubbing on the right side, then you should have plenty (relatively speaking) of clearance on the left side. With the back wheel raised off the ground, center the wheel/tire within the swingarm. Don't trust the markings on the snail adjusters to center the wheel, just position the wheel/tire so it is visually centered within the swingarm. Spin the tire just to make sure there is not excessive wobble that is causing the rubbing. Also check to make sure there is clearance between the chain and the tire. Then dial in the snail adjusters, making sure that the chain is not too tight, and then tighten the axle. Spin the wheel again to make sure it is still centered and the tire is not rubbing on either side of the swingarm or the chain, and you should be good to go.
Joined
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3,923 Posts
The crotch of the swingarm isn't the same on both sides. This is a pic of a tire shoved fully forward, but equal at the adjusters. The brake side gets tighter the further forward the tire is. I'm not sure why Brian's has clearance and yours does not, but if it isn't the location of the spring eye maybe it's amount of axle setback. Note the chunks of ripped tread and the rusted places on the swingarm caused by rocks getting jammed in there:
![Image]()
For what it's worth, here is a picture showing the clearance on the brake side of the swingarm. Not a lot, but at least 1/4" at the very corner of the tread.
![Image]()
Here is a picture showing the sprocket side of the swingarm. Again not a lot of clearance, but there is more going on on this side due to the chain and the chainguard. That is probably the reason for the differences in the crotch of the swingarm as lizrdbrth pointed out above. The bottom portion of the my chainguard is floating free since I removed the bracket from the swingarm. There is some evidence of the tire rubbing on one side and the chain rubbing on the other side. My guess is that I've got another 10-15,000 miles before I have worry about replacing that.
![Image]()
I should also note these pictures were taken with the chain mounted on my 47 tooth sprocket (inside sprocket), so this would account for a little extra clearance in the crotch area and a little less between the chain and the tire.
If you are still needing some extra clearance on one side or the other, here's an idea that you could consider. Cut or grind off the very corner of the tread. The pictures clearly show that I haven't used this part of the tread in the 2,000 miles that I have ridden on this tire.
Here is a picture showing the sprocket side of the swingarm. Again not a lot of clearance, but there is more going on on this side due to the chain and the chainguard. That is probably the reason for the differences in the crotch of the swingarm as lizrdbrth pointed out above. The bottom portion of the my chainguard is floating free since I removed the bracket from the swingarm. There is some evidence of the tire rubbing on one side and the chain rubbing on the other side. My guess is that I've got another 10-15,000 miles before I have worry about replacing that.
I should also note these pictures were taken with the chain mounted on my 47 tooth sprocket (inside sprocket), so this would account for a little extra clearance in the crotch area and a little less between the chain and the tire.
If you are still needing some extra clearance on one side or the other, here's an idea that you could consider. Cut or grind off the very corner of the tread. The pictures clearly show that I haven't used this part of the tread in the 2,000 miles that I have ridden on this tire.
Hello, me again,
Looking to buy a sprocket for this beast... can anyone clue me in if this is what Im looking for?
JT 428 REAR Sprocket: YAMAHA TW 200 TW200 1987-2006 55T
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350582413266?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
or
Sprocket Spec 55 Tooth 428 Rear Sprocket Yamaha FZR 400
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sprocket-Sp...c-55-Tooth-428-Rear-Sprocket-Yamaha-FZR-400-R-FZR600-88-90-325-55-/251090569943
although I dont plan on it right away, Im keeping my options open for a duel sprocket on the rear, so I believe that this has the relief concave section in the middle.
price is $32 or 35 shipped. Called my dealer, who said from him I would be paying between 36 - 60 depending on... something he said when maybe he was drinking.... maybe he said metal?
suggestions or other places?
thanks
-retro-
Looking to buy a sprocket for this beast... can anyone clue me in if this is what Im looking for?
JT 428 REAR Sprocket: YAMAHA TW 200 TW200 1987-2006 55T
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350582413266?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
or
Sprocket Spec 55 Tooth 428 Rear Sprocket Yamaha FZR 400
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sprocket-Sp...c-55-Tooth-428-Rear-Sprocket-Yamaha-FZR-400-R-FZR600-88-90-325-55-/251090569943
although I dont plan on it right away, Im keeping my options open for a duel sprocket on the rear, so I believe that this has the relief concave section in the middle.
price is $32 or 35 shipped. Called my dealer, who said from him I would be paying between 36 - 60 depending on... something he said when maybe he was drinking.... maybe he said metal?
suggestions or other places?
thanks
-retro-
The JT one should be the correct one for the TW. The Sprocket Specialist one is for a Yamaha FZR (different bike) and may not have the correct mounting bolt pattern for the TW.
Sprockets are typically made from either aluminum or steel. Aluminum is typically less expensive, less weight and less durable. Steel is typically more expensive, more weight and more durable. It is not always clear with Ebay sellers, whether you are buying steel or aluminum sprockets, so it may be worth a phone call or email to confirm the material that you are buying.
Sprockets are typically made from either aluminum or steel. Aluminum is typically less expensive, less weight and less durable. Steel is typically more expensive, more weight and more durable. It is not always clear with Ebay sellers, whether you are buying steel or aluminum sprockets, so it may be worth a phone call or email to confirm the material that you are buying.
I think so, I just ordered one for me.
Cant get the tire to fit with the chain on the 50t sprocket. the stock chain is to short and the tire rubs on the right corner of the swing arm. add two links (in and outer) and the chain is too long for the adjustment holes with a chain that flopps up and down over 2 inches (?). waiting for my 55t to come in, hope that going from even to odd in number of teeth, or size of sprocket makes a difference in the small portion of the chain adjustments. Still dont understand why the brake spring mount was welded into the inside of the spring arm, just seems an odd place to put it. Once i solve the crouch problem of the tire, guess i need to start looking at that too.
Working on this for THREE WEEKS NOW! GRRRRRRRR
Working on this for THREE WEEKS NOW! GRRRRRRRR
Got the 55 sprocket on, longer chain... tire spins free, still not great, hope a half link will improve that situation, no longer rubs on crouch of swing arm. BUT as predicted, the rear brake spring mount is a problem. although it clears, i have larger gap in my sparkplug than the space between tire and mount.
IS anyone else having these issues? GRRRRRR
![Image]()
IS anyone else having these issues? GRRRRRR
Joined
·
3,923 Posts
A few of possibilities come to mind.
1. Duro has changed the tire or now offers two versions. Not impossible. There are now two versions of the Bighorn, one lighter in weight than the other. They don't fit the same, even in the identical sizes.
2. You're overinflated.
3. The guys who already have them are full of crap, have ground the lugs for clearance and aren't willing to say so or don't give a rip about the rubbing. I just checked all my stock swingarms and all of them have the spring anchor in exactly the same spot as yours.
I feel your pain, but it has to be one of the above.
I started this thread a long time ago but apparently no one with a Duro wanted to play. When you get to the bottom of why yours is such a pain share your findings and save the next guy some grief:
http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/to...-tire-fitment-chart/page__p__26001__hl__+handy++dandy__fromsearch__1#entry26001
1. Duro has changed the tire or now offers two versions. Not impossible. There are now two versions of the Bighorn, one lighter in weight than the other. They don't fit the same, even in the identical sizes.
2. You're overinflated.
3. The guys who already have them are full of crap, have ground the lugs for clearance and aren't willing to say so or don't give a rip about the rubbing. I just checked all my stock swingarms and all of them have the spring anchor in exactly the same spot as yours.
I feel your pain, but it has to be one of the above.
I started this thread a long time ago but apparently no one with a Duro wanted to play. When you get to the bottom of why yours is such a pain share your findings and save the next guy some grief:
http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/to...-tire-fitment-chart/page__p__26001__hl__+handy++dandy__fromsearch__1#entry26001
61 - 80 of 98 Posts
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