To all you duro power grip enthusiast I believe your right with this tire for an excellent off road tire. I have not ridden on the street with it but off road its just bites and keeps going where I know the stocker would of left me stranded or the need for speed might of compensated but its more fun being a tractor. Installing this tire is pure Hell! I got the feeling I was actually going to end up using this tire on the dock for a boat bumper. 2 tire shops and no luck...I finally did what I didnt want to do and I skimmed the bead area with a dremel like tool on my drill. Barely took any rubber off but enough that when I went back to the tire guy it popped on with a loud bang and brought dirt down from the rafters. I definatly didnt compromise the tire in any way doing this as I was very light on the removal of rubber and made sure I went slow and even. Fits the bike excellent, looks excellent..just need a bigger rear sprocket as it is a taller tire so my gearing is taller. With a 50 tooth sprocket its way to high geared now. Going down a steep hill I had to ride the brakes where as before I could of used 1st gear with no brakes. Thinking going for a 60 tooth, as I am not looking for highway speeds. Had a chance to ride it in the snow and it grips excellent. Definatly got a few looks and had one person snap a picture of it!.So just thought I would share this review, hope it helps.
Duro power grip 26x8x14
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captncrunch
81 - 98 of 98 Posts
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371 Posts
TW-Brian, page one shows the sidewall - it's an 8. Great call though.
order the wrong one? stranger things have happened.. thanks for all the thoughts and support. 10 - 15 psi air. Im wondering if it sitting in the 90 degree heat at 60 pounds for 5 days stretched more than just getting in onto the rim? Who knows....
Taken Tony up on his offer for the half link. see how that changes things, but not really hopeful that its going to change it much. but hopeful.
then my guess is i can
1) hack off the spring mount, turn it 90 degrees weld back on
2) grind the tire down by an 1/8 inch
and then, just maybe get out and try and see if this was worth it.
again thank you for your moral support. I hope ive kept you entertained.
Taken Tony up on his offer for the half link. see how that changes things, but not really hopeful that its going to change it much. but hopeful.
then my guess is i can
1) hack off the spring mount, turn it 90 degrees weld back on
2) grind the tire down by an 1/8 inch
and then, just maybe get out and try and see if this was worth it.
again thank you for your moral support. I hope ive kept you entertained.
Joined
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3,923 Posts
This can be fixed. You're probably agravated as hell right now but if you still wanna go a step further I can tell you how. It requires a steady hand and a good eye and it's only slightly less dangerous than was mounting the tire in the first place
![Image]()
Crosstie the bike down in the front. Lift the back so the tire is off the ground.
Start the bike and let it idle in first gear. Grind the lugs with a body grinder, working from the top rear in the offending area just enough for clearance. The spinning tire will keep things even.
Do the other side to match.
Crosstie the bike down in the front. Lift the back so the tire is off the ground.
Start the bike and let it idle in first gear. Grind the lugs with a body grinder, working from the top rear in the offending area just enough for clearance. The spinning tire will keep things even.
Do the other side to match.
You're probably agravated as hell right now
UNDERSTATEMENT
It's only slightly less dangerous than was mounting the tire in the first place![Image]()
SOUNDS LIKE FUN!
Crosstie the bike down in the front. Lift the back so the tire is off the ground.
EVEN MORE FUN WHEN THE TIRE HITS THE GROUND!
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3,923 Posts
You wanna live forever, er sumpin'?
It really is the cleanest way to get it done.
If you can find a tire shop that still has a tire truing machine they could do it for ya. Same concept, but they spin it in a machine and cut it with knives. Similar to a lathe.
Most tire shops dealing in car and light truck tires of them ditched their machines when bias ply tires fell out of grace but a 4x4 or big truck tire outfit run by smart old guys may have one.
Looks like this. Often sitting in a dark corner of old tire shops cuz most guys don't know what it's for. lol. Only takes a few seconds:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=q97gZgN7GOo&NR=1
I thought I'd just kinda throw this one in for giggles. Actually I only threw it in to make myself look less a sissy for advocating time over pressure. Wait for the "uncaged" footage. After that it's just a boring sales pitch:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKlJJqHFfoQ
I'm aware of at least 3 ATV tire explosions (two of which resulted in bodily harm) which have gone unreported on this forum, perhaps out of embarrassment. No one learns anything from that because it wasn't shared. This is either a perfectly safe practice as Retrofit experienced or a potential disaster according to your level of patience and common sense. If you lack either, leave it alone.
It really is the cleanest way to get it done.
If you can find a tire shop that still has a tire truing machine they could do it for ya. Same concept, but they spin it in a machine and cut it with knives. Similar to a lathe.
Most tire shops dealing in car and light truck tires of them ditched their machines when bias ply tires fell out of grace but a 4x4 or big truck tire outfit run by smart old guys may have one.
Looks like this. Often sitting in a dark corner of old tire shops cuz most guys don't know what it's for. lol. Only takes a few seconds:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=q97gZgN7GOo&NR=1
I thought I'd just kinda throw this one in for giggles. Actually I only threw it in to make myself look less a sissy for advocating time over pressure. Wait for the "uncaged" footage. After that it's just a boring sales pitch:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKlJJqHFfoQ
I'm aware of at least 3 ATV tire explosions (two of which resulted in bodily harm) which have gone unreported on this forum, perhaps out of embarrassment. No one learns anything from that because it wasn't shared. This is either a perfectly safe practice as Retrofit experienced or a potential disaster according to your level of patience and common sense. If you lack either, leave it alone.
Joined
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111 Posts
I look at the simple, effective fixes, even if its not the prettiest.
![Image]()
Here's a couple of things I'd look at doing... you said about 1/8" right?
1. Take tire out, grab your handy dandy blue tip wrench and heat up the hoop, smack it outboard just a tad
2. Ride it. How bad is the buzz? Its steel vs. rubber and will do what I like to refer to as, "self clear". hehe
![Image]()
Here's a couple of things I'd look at doing... you said about 1/8" right?
1. Take tire out, grab your handy dandy blue tip wrench and heat up the hoop, smack it outboard just a tad
2. Ride it. How bad is the buzz? Its steel vs. rubber and will do what I like to refer to as, "self clear". hehe
rethinking about it, if someone(s) had posted more about the bad's then just all the you will love it, I might have rethought this so much sooner... knowing how much the tire had to stretch to make it bead, im really concerned about the integrity of the tire sidewall. and now, my tire seems sooo much bigger than eveyone elses. which seems that no one understands.
new plan now is to cut the inside brake spring bracket swivel back 45 to 90 degrees and put a quick spot weld to hold it down. also noticed that when the axle is not tight, there is a small space between the rim spacers and the swing arm. was wonder what would happen if i put a washer spacer in on the exhaust side. might move the tire over a hair, not much, and i cant image with this much rubber and that little movement it really throwing off anything much. but i am looking for anything that will give me more room than can be measured by a spark plug gapper.
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371 Posts
Me too Joe - seems just fine for everywhere I've been or intend to go, just the way it is. Does look COOL with the Duro though. Sigh . . .
Ok, I pulled my rear wheel off today to take some measurements and photos using a spare swingarm.
The Duro 26x8x14 measured exactly 8" width at 18 psi. The diameter measured 25 3/4" at 18 psi.
![Image]()
The width of the swingarm, measured at at the brake return spring loop, is 9". The narrowest point is at the ridge on the inner surface of the swingarm.
![Image]()
With the snail adjusters set at 4+1 (stock chain length and 50 tooth rear sprocket on my bike), here is the clearance between the tire and the swingarm on the brake side.
![Image]()
Here is the clearance on the sprocket side. Note: The chain guard bracket will need to be removed or bent out of the way when you run this tire.
![Image]()
With the snail adjusters set at 7+1 (stock chain length and a 47 tooth rear sprocket on my bike), here is the clearance between the swingarm on the brake side.
![Image]()
Here is the clearance on the sprocket side.
![Image]()
With my snail adjusters at 7+1, there is still about 1/4" of travel remaining in the rear axle mounting slot.
As these photos illustrate, there is sufficient clearance for my unmodified Duro 26x8x14 to fit in a stock swingarm using the stock chain length and either a 47 or 50 tooth rear sprocket. There is not a lot of extra clearance, but if the tire is centered, it should fit.
I hope this is helpful.
Brian
The Duro 26x8x14 measured exactly 8" width at 18 psi. The diameter measured 25 3/4" at 18 psi.
The width of the swingarm, measured at at the brake return spring loop, is 9". The narrowest point is at the ridge on the inner surface of the swingarm.
With the snail adjusters set at 4+1 (stock chain length and 50 tooth rear sprocket on my bike), here is the clearance between the tire and the swingarm on the brake side.
Here is the clearance on the sprocket side. Note: The chain guard bracket will need to be removed or bent out of the way when you run this tire.
With the snail adjusters set at 7+1 (stock chain length and a 47 tooth rear sprocket on my bike), here is the clearance between the swingarm on the brake side.
Here is the clearance on the sprocket side.
With my snail adjusters at 7+1, there is still about 1/4" of travel remaining in the rear axle mounting slot.
As these photos illustrate, there is sufficient clearance for my unmodified Duro 26x8x14 to fit in a stock swingarm using the stock chain length and either a 47 or 50 tooth rear sprocket. There is not a lot of extra clearance, but if the tire is centered, it should fit.
I hope this is helpful.
Brian
Well its done... and interesting enough, on the first ride of 1.2 miles, someone asked questions about what the heck i was riding.... go figure.
special thanks to all on this board for talking me into this (I HATE YOU)
thanks to all that kept offering words of encouragements with ideas that may or may not have worked
(as i think the only time the tire goes on is when it damn well pleases and all the !@#$ we do dont make a difference)
and a call out for Tony who felt my pain and sent me a half link that completed the solution. (i love you man)
In the end, the solution was 55t sprocket, get a longer chain, make a spacer for the exhaust side of the bike, cut off and relocate the brake spring, which all worked and gave it enough space spin freely but in the end... Tony's half link took the snail adjusters from around 6 to around 8!
Thank you!
![Image]()
special thanks to all on this board for talking me into this (I HATE YOU)
thanks to all that kept offering words of encouragements with ideas that may or may not have worked
(as i think the only time the tire goes on is when it damn well pleases and all the !@#$ we do dont make a difference)
and a call out for Tony who felt my pain and sent me a half link that completed the solution. (i love you man)
In the end, the solution was 55t sprocket, get a longer chain, make a spacer for the exhaust side of the bike, cut off and relocate the brake spring, which all worked and gave it enough space spin freely but in the end... Tony's half link took the snail adjusters from around 6 to around 8!
Thank you!
ohh... and for anyone else that thinks about this or some other tire... here is my added hint. DONT CUT OFF THE CHAIR GUARD FINGER THING. i put a size socket i wanted as a space between the finger and the frame, hit the bottom of the guard and it bent up being it closer to the swing arm, while the socket between kept it vertical. I had hoped to still be able to use it as designed, but found that the upward travel made it so it didnt fit the chain guard plastic loop. no problem, pocket knifed off the plastic loop. then zip tied the guard from the hole to the arm. the cool part about this is i can exactly set where i want my chain guard to be by bending in or out the metal finger. and regardless of the wind or rocks, it stays in place!
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1,761 Posts
Good job! Happy it all worked out for you. And as for the turn signal placement... unique.
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